Upper strut mount installation question
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Hammond, Indiana
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Upper strut mount installation question
I'm going to need to do this soon and I was planning on going with the KLA strut mounts. Can I install them without completely removing the struts and then having an alignment required? Would I need a spring compressor as well?
thanks
thanks
#3
Can't you disconnect the sway bar with the car up in the air and then remove the strut mount (with something under the hub to keep it from falling to the ground) without having to remove the strut. Seems like you could then put in new mounts without even an alignment if they matched up exactly with the old mounts. Probably wouldn't be exact with aftermarket parts and existing alignment done on 17 year old bushings. Once everything was put back together, the weight of the car would compress the springs. Not saying this is the right way but seems it could be done. I didn't use a spring compressor to remove my old struts when replacing struts, camber plates and sways.
#5
Originally Posted by ApexCars
Can't you disconnect the sway bar with the car up in the air and then remove the strut mount (with something under the hub to keep it from falling to the ground) without having to remove the strut. Seems like you could then put in new mounts without even an alignment if they matched up exactly with the old mounts. Probably wouldn't be exact with aftermarket parts and existing alignment done on 17 year old bushings. Once everything was put back together, the weight of the car would compress the springs. Not saying this is the right way but seems it could be done. I didn't use a spring compressor to remove my old struts when replacing struts, camber plates and sways.
#6
Rennlist Member
It is possible to install KLA strut mounts without removing the struts, but you would need a new alignment anyway because the mounting point for the top of the strut would not be in exactly the same point in space as your current, worn out stock rubber mount. When you do the job you'll see what I mean -- the holes/etc. are not so precisely sized as to ensure that the upper mount will be located in EXACTLY the same spot (i.e., it could move at least 1/8" from where the stock mount is). Given that your alignment settings are in fractions of a degree, you will end up way out of whack.
As an example, when I replaced mine with the KLAs, I marked the alignment on the struts with nail polish and returned it to the exact same settings. When the car went on the alignment machine, the LF camber was +1.5 degrees and the RF camber was about right (-1 degree). Since you'll have to redo the alignment anyway, it's much easier (and safer) to remove the entire strut when you do this job.
As an example, when I replaced mine with the KLAs, I marked the alignment on the struts with nail polish and returned it to the exact same settings. When the car went on the alignment machine, the LF camber was +1.5 degrees and the RF camber was about right (-1 degree). Since you'll have to redo the alignment anyway, it's much easier (and safer) to remove the entire strut when you do this job.
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
They're absolutely fine on the street. I really couldn't discern any added noise/harshness/etc. I can't really comment on the performance improvement because I made several changes to the suspension at the same time, but I was very satisfied overall.
#9
Drifting
I was able to remove the springs on my TurboS without a spring compressor (adjustable perches) but don't see how this would be safe on the non-M030 suspension.
I'm in the same boat as KLR. I installed my KLA mounts while making other suspension upgrades so can't discern the impact on ride harshness.
I'm in the same boat as KLR. I installed my KLA mounts while making other suspension upgrades so can't discern the impact on ride harshness.
#10
Rennlist Member
You definately need a spring compressor on non-m030 cars (i.e., without adjustable spring perches).
To give you a sense of ride harshness, I changed over to the KLAs at the same time that I upgraded my sway bars to TurboS front with delrin bushings and 968 m030 rear. I also installed 968 castor blocks at the same time, installed new tires, and got a performance alignment to Danno's recommended specs, but everything else was left stock. I did not detect any change whatsoever in ride harshness or noise from this -- so I really don't think you'd find any noticeable impact. Performance, OTOH, was VASTLY improved. When people talk about these cars being extremely capable in stock configuration, they aren't kidding!
To give you a sense of ride harshness, I changed over to the KLAs at the same time that I upgraded my sway bars to TurboS front with delrin bushings and 968 m030 rear. I also installed 968 castor blocks at the same time, installed new tires, and got a performance alignment to Danno's recommended specs, but everything else was left stock. I did not detect any change whatsoever in ride harshness or noise from this -- so I really don't think you'd find any noticeable impact. Performance, OTOH, was VASTLY improved. When people talk about these cars being extremely capable in stock configuration, they aren't kidding!
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Hammond, Indiana
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Question, I checked out the strut on the weekend. It seems pretty solid laterally. I managed to get the creaking sound by lifting on the hub but it was hard to tell if it was from the upper mount. I did notice that the sway bar end bushing was cracking and would squeek as I moved it around. Is it possible for that to make a loud enough creaking sound to be heard from inside the car?
I'm thinking I might be able to put off the strut mount and save it for when I can do the konis as well.
I'm thinking I might be able to put off the strut mount and save it for when I can do the konis as well.