Any chance of replacing o2 sensor with car on the ground?
06-10-2006, 12:03 PM
#17
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Important tip - make sure you look at where the O2 sensor wires are routed – if you don’t put the new wires in the same way you will have a very good chance that they will melt…!
Chris White
Ps – a “friendly” muffler shop may charge you lees than the cost of buying the ramps and the tool…
Chris White
Ps – a “friendly” muffler shop may charge you lees than the cost of buying the ramps and the tool…
06-10-2006, 12:20 PM
#19
How is the paragon tool different from a 22mm crow's foot? Some mapp/oxy on the sensor's bung will probably help if on your first attempt it's well and truely stuck.
Jason
Jason
06-10-2006, 12:27 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by black944 turbo
Chris very good tip. I forgot to do that and it was a major pita trying to get the wire back where it was supposed to go.
06-10-2006, 02:36 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by aeronautica86
Alright, I think I'll just do it myself then;
as for the sound/HT system - thats awesome!
How are you liking it?
as for the sound/HT system - thats awesome!
How are you liking it?This weekend ( I got it 3 weeks ago )
I would put on some PB blaster as well and let it soak in and as Lou said you can try a torch just make sure that the wires are not exposed
Don't forget to wack it
06-10-2006, 03:49 PM
#23
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Aight, I got the thing replaced without too much difficulty; the sensor that was in there looked as though it had been there for a while, and was a OE sensor, but not the one that came with the car from the factory.
For those of you who have done this before, did you use the little black box that comes with the kit to cover the posi-lock connectors? I tried using it at first, but it was too big to be able to fit through the space to get back up to the top of the engine where the connection is made. I suppose I could redo all the connections and put the black box back in place now that the sensor is all hooked up, but it would be a pain, is it necessary?
For those of you who have done this before, did you use the little black box that comes with the kit to cover the posi-lock connectors? I tried using it at first, but it was too big to be able to fit through the space to get back up to the top of the engine where the connection is made. I suppose I could redo all the connections and put the black box back in place now that the sensor is all hooked up, but it would be a pain, is it necessary?
