STONE GUARD REMOVAL: A SAFER PROCESS!
06-08-2006, 12:30 PM
#1
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STONE GUARD REMOVAL: A SAFER PROCESS!
Lately I have been reading a lot of post about removing the stone guards with people damaging the paint etc. so I decided to have a go with mine this morning to see what I could do that might be a little safer for the paint. I think I have found a much safer alternative for everyone, it is working great for me so I thought I would share.
First instead of using a heat gun which I have seen melt the paint off of other cars in the past I decided to use a hair dryer since it doesn't get nearly as hot. It doesn't melt the stone guards like a lot of people have been doing, but it gets them soft enough to peel up with ease.
Second for my scraping tool I have been using a cheap plastic putty knife, the kind you can pick up at any hardware store for less the a dollar. The edge is sharp enough to scrape away at the stone guards and it doesn't scratch the paint.
Third, after an area of stone guard is peeled away, and the sticky residue is left behind, I decided to use stage 3 of Meguiar's paint cleaning/waxing system. This doesn't really remove the residue a whole lot but it gets it in a stage where the next step of my process was much easier. I also used stage 1 of Meguiar's which removes the residue more then stage 3, but for so much rubbing needed I didn't want to use it on the paint so much since its a bit more abrasive(its the cleaner wax) then the stage 3.
And finally to safely get the rest of the residue off I have been using a simple pencil eraser. A large one without the pencil will work much better since so much is needed. It doesn't leave any marks behind and rubs away the residue really quick. As I said before you could do it without using the wax but it takes much longer. The wax seems to break down the residue enough that the eraser takes it off a lot faster.
The process is still pretty much the same, heat with the hair dryer and peel away with the putty knife at the same time. Then wax the area with the stage 3 Meguiar's with some good elbow grease. And finally work the area with the eraser. I have gotten the at least half of my largest stone guard off in about 20 minutes using the process.
I know this may not involve buffing wheels etc. but it is working great for me and doesn't use any harsh chemicals and tools on the paint, and I am able to do it with simple common household items, and I have yet to leave a mark of any kind on my paint.
BTW- My car is alpine white and the stone guards were cracking and turning dark, which was horrible looking.
First instead of using a heat gun which I have seen melt the paint off of other cars in the past I decided to use a hair dryer since it doesn't get nearly as hot. It doesn't melt the stone guards like a lot of people have been doing, but it gets them soft enough to peel up with ease.
Second for my scraping tool I have been using a cheap plastic putty knife, the kind you can pick up at any hardware store for less the a dollar. The edge is sharp enough to scrape away at the stone guards and it doesn't scratch the paint.
Third, after an area of stone guard is peeled away, and the sticky residue is left behind, I decided to use stage 3 of Meguiar's paint cleaning/waxing system. This doesn't really remove the residue a whole lot but it gets it in a stage where the next step of my process was much easier. I also used stage 1 of Meguiar's which removes the residue more then stage 3, but for so much rubbing needed I didn't want to use it on the paint so much since its a bit more abrasive(its the cleaner wax) then the stage 3.
And finally to safely get the rest of the residue off I have been using a simple pencil eraser. A large one without the pencil will work much better since so much is needed. It doesn't leave any marks behind and rubs away the residue really quick. As I said before you could do it without using the wax but it takes much longer. The wax seems to break down the residue enough that the eraser takes it off a lot faster.
The process is still pretty much the same, heat with the hair dryer and peel away with the putty knife at the same time. Then wax the area with the stage 3 Meguiar's with some good elbow grease. And finally work the area with the eraser. I have gotten the at least half of my largest stone guard off in about 20 minutes using the process.
I know this may not involve buffing wheels etc. but it is working great for me and doesn't use any harsh chemicals and tools on the paint, and I am able to do it with simple common household items, and I have yet to leave a mark of any kind on my paint.
BTW- My car is alpine white and the stone guards were cracking and turning dark, which was horrible looking.
06-08-2006, 04:54 PM
#2
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Originally Posted by potent951turbo86
Lately I have been reading a lot of post about removing the stone guards with people damaging the paint etc. so I decided to have a go with mine this morning to see what I could do that might be a little safer for the paint. I think I have found a much safer alternative for everyone, it is working great for me so I thought I would share.
First instead of using a heat gun which I have seen melt the paint off of other cars in the past I decided to use a hair dryer since it doesn't get nearly as hot. It doesn't melt the stone guards like a lot of people have been doing, but it gets them soft enough to peel up with ease.
Second for my scraping tool I have been using a cheap plastic putty knife, the kind you can pick up at any hardware store for less the a dollar. The edge is sharp enough to scrape away at the stone guards and it doesn't scratch the paint.
Third, after an area of stone guard is peeled away, and the sticky residue is left behind, I decided to use stage 3 of Meguiar's paint cleaning/waxing system. This doesn't really remove the residue a whole lot but it gets it in a stage where the next step of my process was much easier. I also used stage 1 of Meguiar's which removes the residue more then stage 3, but for so much rubbing needed I didn't want to use it on the paint so much since its a bit more abrasive(its the cleaner wax) then the stage 3.
And finally to safely get the rest of the residue off I have been using a simple pencil eraser. A large one without the pencil will work much better since so much is needed. It doesn't leave any marks behind and rubs away the residue really quick. As I said before you could do it without using the wax but it takes much longer. The wax seems to break down the residue enough that the eraser takes it off a lot faster.
The process is still pretty much the same, heat with the hair dryer and peel away with the putty knife at the same time. Then wax the area with the stage 3 Meguiar's with some good elbow grease. And finally work the area with the eraser. I have gotten the at least half of my largest stone guard off in about 20 minutes using the process.
I know this may not involve buffing wheels etc. but it is working great for me and doesn't use any harsh chemicals and tools on the paint, and I am able to do it with simple common household items, and I have yet to leave a mark of any kind on my paint.
BTW- My car is alpine white and the stone guards were cracking and turning dark, which was horrible looking.
First instead of using a heat gun which I have seen melt the paint off of other cars in the past I decided to use a hair dryer since it doesn't get nearly as hot. It doesn't melt the stone guards like a lot of people have been doing, but it gets them soft enough to peel up with ease.
Second for my scraping tool I have been using a cheap plastic putty knife, the kind you can pick up at any hardware store for less the a dollar. The edge is sharp enough to scrape away at the stone guards and it doesn't scratch the paint.
Third, after an area of stone guard is peeled away, and the sticky residue is left behind, I decided to use stage 3 of Meguiar's paint cleaning/waxing system. This doesn't really remove the residue a whole lot but it gets it in a stage where the next step of my process was much easier. I also used stage 1 of Meguiar's which removes the residue more then stage 3, but for so much rubbing needed I didn't want to use it on the paint so much since its a bit more abrasive(its the cleaner wax) then the stage 3.
And finally to safely get the rest of the residue off I have been using a simple pencil eraser. A large one without the pencil will work much better since so much is needed. It doesn't leave any marks behind and rubs away the residue really quick. As I said before you could do it without using the wax but it takes much longer. The wax seems to break down the residue enough that the eraser takes it off a lot faster.
The process is still pretty much the same, heat with the hair dryer and peel away with the putty knife at the same time. Then wax the area with the stage 3 Meguiar's with some good elbow grease. And finally work the area with the eraser. I have gotten the at least half of my largest stone guard off in about 20 minutes using the process.
I know this may not involve buffing wheels etc. but it is working great for me and doesn't use any harsh chemicals and tools on the paint, and I am able to do it with simple common household items, and I have yet to leave a mark of any kind on my paint.
BTW- My car is alpine white and the stone guards were cracking and turning dark, which was horrible looking.
One question, what are you useing for replacements Stock ones or Ebay ones ?
Thanks for the tips
Regards
Ed
06-09-2006, 03:01 AM
#3
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I swear that all "100% natural" cleaners (especially those marketed as "Orange" or "Citrus") are a waste of money as they are almost entirely useless. Goo-gone was very inefectinve on the stickers I tried to remove (and these were the inside window stickers). The orange degreaser I've tried in the past was also almost utterly useless when compared to something like Greased Lightning and this "orange" Gojo mechanics scrub soap I just bought (I never seem to learn) doesn't even do as good a job as my normal dish soap despite containing abrasive pumice.
Just my $0.02
Just my $0.02
Last edited by pstickne; 06-09-2006 at 03:03 AM. Reason: Speeling corrections
06-09-2006, 03:20 PM
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Can you pull the stone gaurds and the paint is ok under?
I thought if you pulled them you would need to paint those areas.
I thought if you pulled them you would need to paint those areas.
06-10-2006, 02:52 AM
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I just bought a complete set from Auto Trim Design on ebay for 50 good deal they look nice and I plan to put them on this weekend. Ill have pics of my new tint job and the stone gaurds with a before and after soon to come
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06-10-2006, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by toddk911
Can you pull the stone gaurds and the paint is ok under?
I thought if you pulled them you would need to paint those areas.
I thought if you pulled them you would need to paint those areas.
Yeah you can take them off with no damage to the paint, you just have to be careful and take your time. They were meant to be replaceable, and to protect the paint from chips.
06-10-2006, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Stealth3033
I just bought a complete set from Auto Trim Design on ebay for 50 good deal they look nice and I plan to put them on this weekend. Ill have pics of my new tint job and the stone gaurds with a before and after soon to come
What kind of materials are the stone guards made out of or are there no markings? I was just wondering if maybe it was 3M stuff like the new ones you get from other vendors.
06-10-2006, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by eclou
Anyone know where to get a clear bra or just the film itself?
You can buy the film on rolls off ebay. There are several people that sell large rolls in different quantities for decent prices.
06-10-2006, 06:17 PM
#12
Actually...
You can skip steps 1 thru 3 if you will just get an eraser "wheel" at a paint and body supply shop. It mounts on your drill and works just like your hand-held eraser, except that it generates its own heat thru friction. It's alot easier than doing it by hand too and it removes all the goo too.
06-10-2006, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rickb20
You can skip steps 1 thru 3 if you will just get an eraser "wheel" at a paint and body supply shop. It mounts on your drill and works just like your hand-held eraser, except that it generates its own heat thru friction. It's alot easier than doing it by hand too and it removes all the goo too.
The point of my process was to keep it simple with household items, and also to prevent paint damage. I know that an eraser wheel will take it off much easier but it still runs the risk of burning the paint if your not careful or if you have never used one. I would prefer to do it carefully by hand knowing that I am not presenting the risk paint damage, and I wanted other DIY people to know the steps I took.
06-10-2006, 10:26 PM
#14
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I used a quartz heater to heat the suface of the car (stone guard area) to 108F. Using an infrared gun thermometer I took readings until it made it. Then I carefully removed the material. Then cleaned the area, applied the new one with a mixture of 25% alcohol and 75% water. This is really very easy. I used a cheap spatula to iron out the bubbles. One side didn't go well so I pulled it off and re-did it. See photos...
06-11-2006, 05:32 PM
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I had some hard times yesterday with the stone gaurd removal...I used a hair dryer to heat them up and a soft putty knife to lift it up..The ones located in the wheel wells were not a problem however the square shaped ones(which might I add had the most damage...very yellow and cracked) were a real bitch to do. They didnt come off easy at all and left extreme residue along with taking off some of the clear coat on the paint and even some of that ruffer surface on the bottom of the 944s. I really do think it is because those things were 18 years old and just in bad shape. So i would recommend that anyone who sees that they are becoming old to remove them right away....as for potent951turbo86 heres the link of the auction i bought my new ones on they are the same thickness as 3m and come with lifetime warranty http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
I may actaully not use them and end up selling them so if anyone is interested let me know
I may actaully not use them and end up selling them so if anyone is interested let me know