Charlie944

Alright here is the scoop. I just put in a new Feramic (sindered iron + graphite)sprung hub disc which is 7.69mm uncompressed and took out the Kevlar disc which was 6.68mm I assume compressed as well (since I measured it out of the car). The Kevlar was not holding the power and the car is not all the way back together yet, but far enough where I would hate to rip apart again.

I have Markus Blaszaks modified pressurep plate where he regrinds the fulcrum points on the pressure plate.

Problem is the clutch fork hits the end of the bellhousing inspection hole and, when the slave cylinder is removed there is a 1/4" amonut of play before the fork hits the throw-out bearing. I tired turning the crank with the car in 1st and clutch all the way depressed and it locks against the trans.

When the slave is at rest and bolted in I have 7/16" play till the fork hit the bellhousing and when the slave is unbolted and fork is touching the T/O bearing I have 11/16". I am confident that with the extra 1/4" of fork slop removed the clutch will disengage properly.
The slave and master cyl's are new and I bleed the slave 6 times with a Motive power bleeder and the pedal is set at 1/8" of play.

Any tips??
I know K-bit had a worn thrust bearing and I will be royally pissed if that is my case, but I have had zero signs of such a thing thus far.

TIA!

special tool

What did that guy do to your PP?

You have not completely bled your hydraulic system.
It is difficult to do on the 944.

35thSLP

did you shim the T/O bearing, that might get rid of some of the slop.

Charlie944

Markus moved the fulcrum points inside the pressure plate to increase leverage and holding capacity that the disc sees. I ran across a diagram depicting this but I will have to see if I can find it again.

I did shim the T/O bearing when I put the Kevlar disc in before. I did not touch the thing this time around though. I have the 2 shims and segmented spring shim outside the pressure plate diaphram and the thicker shim and locking wire on the inside.

I was thinking about changing that, but I would not want the T/O bearing to be all loose and flopping around on the diaphram.

Charlie944

I found my problem. The clutch disc I ordered from South Bend Clutch does not have the same style offset hub as the Sachs, etc....so the hub was hitting the flywheel bolts and the two friction surfaces were not even touching. This all translates into the clutch assembly being moved out by ~ 1/8"+ which caused my clutch fork to have so much slop till engagment.

I will have to call and see if they can get me a new disc with the correct hub. The disc dimesnsions and splines all are correct but it does not have the recinded area to make room for the flywheel bots like the SACHS spring hub.
Below is a pic that shows my style hub. It does have a slight offset on the pressure plate side, but the flywheel side does not.