Dyno run
#17
Drive-by provocation guy
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From: NAS PAX River, by way of Orlando
"A customer in FL who was not happy with the spoolup characteristics of his old generation Stage 2 for about 2 years now. He finally replaced the MBC and voila, it spools like a charm. He reduced spoolup by 500-700rpm, and now he hits 1bar boost at 3200rpmr"
What did he have and what did he switch to?
Does running in dual port made really make a difference in spool up and if so, does it matter which MBC you use in dual port mode?
What did he have and what did he switch to?
Does running in dual port made really make a difference in spool up and if so, does it matter which MBC you use in dual port mode?
#18
Customer in FL had a dual port WG. Switch the MBC (not sure of the brand or condition) and boost problem solved. He finally went with a EBC, but many MBC controllers work fine.. The main thing to remember is that MBCs are not all the same, and yes it does matter which to use..
DP WG enhances spoolup with any setup...
DP WG enhances spoolup with any setup...
#19
I had a MBC worked fine, except when the weather got colder it would not hold at pre-set psi. Bought a EBC Profec-B-spec-2 works great cold or hot weather. There was no difference in spoolup between the two.
#20
I have a black **** mbc I bought from Lindsey hooked up to a 38mmTIAL in DP mode. I'm tired of adjusting it to make up for different temperatures. I also spike to 17.5psi in 1st and 2nd. Don't know if this is related to the mbc or not.
In 3rd, 4th and 5th it stays at 16psi +/- 0.3psi.
In 3rd, 4th and 5th it stays at 16psi +/- 0.3psi.
#22
>>>Yes you will see boost changes up to 3-psi cold to hot days with MBC.<<<
I never did.
I live where it's 110F max in the summer, and 35F max cold in the winter.
And, there's about a 2000' elevation change between my house and a couple of tracks I run.
I've never once had to touch the **** to control the boost.
TonyG
I never did.
I live where it's 110F max in the summer, and 35F max cold in the winter.
And, there's about a 2000' elevation change between my house and a couple of tracks I run.
I've never once had to touch the **** to control the boost.
TonyG
#23
>>>MBC are known for spikes and for requiring adjustment with temp changes.<<<
Maybe for some people. But not for me. Not when using the Tial 46 with the correct spring. However, I used to have those problems running low end wastegates and check valve boost controllers.
With respect to some of the other manual boost controllers, and/or with other wastegates, then yes. That's typically been the case.
But the upside is that the MBC that I'm talking about, is a fail safe setup. That's a BIG plus.
After going 46mm Tial and black-**** boost controller... I won't use anything else.. period*.
*Unless it's a situation where the power is so great that you are forced to use an electronic boost controller to control the gain (taper the boost curve down/smooth out the hit of power) or to set different boost levels for different gears.
TonyG
Maybe for some people. But not for me. Not when using the Tial 46 with the correct spring. However, I used to have those problems running low end wastegates and check valve boost controllers.
With respect to some of the other manual boost controllers, and/or with other wastegates, then yes. That's typically been the case.
But the upside is that the MBC that I'm talking about, is a fail safe setup. That's a BIG plus.
After going 46mm Tial and black-**** boost controller... I won't use anything else.. period*.
*Unless it's a situation where the power is so great that you are forced to use an electronic boost controller to control the gain (taper the boost curve down/smooth out the hit of power) or to set different boost levels for different gears.
TonyG
#24
Originally Posted by TonyG
*Unless it's a situation where the power is so great that you are forced to use an electronic boost controller to control the gain (taper the boost curve down/smooth out the hit of power) or to set different boost levels for different gears. —TonyG
#25
Drive-by provocation guy
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From: NAS PAX River, by way of Orlando
Tony then you must have a "smart" or adjusting boost controller as the mass of say 15psi at 35 degrees and at 110 degrees is very different.
So at 35 degrees and not touching the MBC, you will "fit" in more air in the motor then at 110 degrees. Not to mention the IC will operate more efficently at 35 degrees and allow a cooler charge air, also resulting in more air being able to "fit" into the motor at the same boost levels.
In the winter in FL I get 1-2 more psi without touching anything. And then in the summer the drops back to normal. My MBC is and always has been rock solid and no spikes, etc. Only during the winter is there a difference.
So at 35 degrees and not touching the MBC, you will "fit" in more air in the motor then at 110 degrees. Not to mention the IC will operate more efficently at 35 degrees and allow a cooler charge air, also resulting in more air being able to "fit" into the motor at the same boost levels.
In the winter in FL I get 1-2 more psi without touching anything. And then in the summer the drops back to normal. My MBC is and always has been rock solid and no spikes, etc. Only during the winter is there a difference.
#26
Todd,
I understand the physics, and there more to it than simple temperature change. But to even address this (which has been addressed here on Rennlist about 18 gabillion times) would derail this thread.
Bottom line, is that with all of the electronic and manual boost controllers that I've tried, which is probably close to a dozen over the years, none have worked as well as the little black **** and a Tial 46mm with the correct spring.
On the other side of the fence, I've have seen/known about several electronic solenoids that failed (2 with catastrophic results... including one of my previous 951's that I sold to MySwiss who insisted on installing an electronic boost controller, after I told him over and over that he would see zero gain. He saw zero gain. And the solenoid failed causing the car to run boost "wide open" on race day... well past the boost gauge, resulting severe engine damage).
TonyG
I understand the physics, and there more to it than simple temperature change. But to even address this (which has been addressed here on Rennlist about 18 gabillion times) would derail this thread.
Bottom line, is that with all of the electronic and manual boost controllers that I've tried, which is probably close to a dozen over the years, none have worked as well as the little black **** and a Tial 46mm with the correct spring.
On the other side of the fence, I've have seen/known about several electronic solenoids that failed (2 with catastrophic results... including one of my previous 951's that I sold to MySwiss who insisted on installing an electronic boost controller, after I told him over and over that he would see zero gain. He saw zero gain. And the solenoid failed causing the car to run boost "wide open" on race day... well past the boost gauge, resulting severe engine damage).
TonyG
#28
Drive-by provocation guy
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From: NAS PAX River, by way of Orlando
Hey Tony!
Yea I agree. And I in know way would doubt your knowledge or experience.
So your running the "****" with the Tial in dual port?
Is the **** style considered a regulator or relief?
Is it better for spool up/control to run, when in dual port, relief or regulator style?
Yea I agree. And I in know way would doubt your knowledge or experience.
So your running the "****" with the Tial in dual port?
Is the **** style considered a regulator or relief?
Is it better for spool up/control to run, when in dual port, relief or regulator style?