well by the looks of his sig, I'd say he has the brakes covered - if it were me, I'd probably get a better chip (ie VR) and then go with coilovers front and rear, like the paragon conversion and the kla rears, but he did ask about engine parts

 

I couldnt ask for a better suspension setup.

 

I would be hesitating to make any major changes (like a turbo install) if I was on a tight budget since so much is related to the turbo and if you go a low price (cheap?) route you might want ot redo it when you have more money to spend anyway.

 

That's a great point. But I feel like the K26/6 just doesn't have enough up high. Would it be even worse with a MAF?

 

NO, the MAF will add some power in the upper range. I thought that it wasn't either but it reduce spool up time (lower RPM and also faster to respond at speed), clean idle (my idle was good before but now I can tune it dead on and any weather), good mid range and still pulls in the upper (not as much as a larger turbo of course, but you WILL feel a power increase in the upper range). I ran the same boost as before and didn't change anything but the MAF/SMT-6/Chips from VR.

 

There would be little change up top. The K26 just runs out of steam at higher RPMs. The MAF will allow earlier spool times a little more peak power (maybe 10hp).

However, the real benefit is when you change to a larger turbo.

 

If it were either MAF OR Turbo and that's the end of it, then the bigger turbo is the way to go.

As I recall, John says that while the MAF is a good upgrade, where it really comes in strong is on bigger turbos and doesn't do so much for a 26/6. He is also a big proponent of saving your money and putting on a kit that is designed to work together, rather than doing piece meal upgrades.

As you already said that $3700 is out of budget, I'd get a 27/6 and chips from John and take his advice on FPR, injectors....and of course some sort of boost controller.

Actually, I wouldn't, because i didn't. I got a LBE, chips from John, MO3O sway bars,test pipe (which you can buy for $325 i think new) short shift (love my short shift), auxillary oil cooler, and a baffle in my oil pan (only needed if you track on fast turns). If you get a big turbo and a bunch of hp and screw up your rod bearings on a turn, what's the point?

 

You are getting great advise here.
Set your long term goals for your car. Where do you want to be in 2 years, be realistic.
Based on the answer, set intermediate goals or steps that will lead you to your ultimate goal down the line. The intermediate goals must not be wasted in order to continue to the next step.

Upgrading the turbo by itself is a no-no! Anytime you upgrade or alter the flow characteristics of your engine (same turbo but more boost), you MUST address the tuning (fuel & Ign).

If you are on a tight budget (we all are!), then a chip, FPR (maybe injectors) are a good start. If your long term goal is to have plenty of power (who doesn't?), then a turbo upgrade, injectors, MAF (or another chip depending on the turbo), WG will be on your list.

Take your time, plan it properly, do it properly the "first" time and you will be happier in the long term.

 

Thanks for the advice everyone. Its not really that 3700 is out of my budget, its more like I dont want to spend 3700 dollars on the car when ill be leaving for college shortly. I guess im a cheapskate. Any way, It seems like my best bet right now is (if I want to do it in steps with the bigger turbo being my final goal) is start off with injectors, fpr, boost controller, and a waste gate. Then, later on add a turbo and chips to run the bigger turbo, and a maf.

Im sure Im forgetting something, but basically, adding the turbo first is not the way to start. Thanks for all the advice. Im still open to suggestions. John you will probably be hearing from me sometime soon.

-Jeff

 

No need for injectors if you are not going chips or MAF or turbo that need them.

If you know that you will be going to a bigger turbo later, start with the MAF as it will come with chips. Then you can go to the turbo, injectors, piggyback, and FPR.

 

The piggyback is essential when upgrading the turbo right? (As to not do a half-assed job)

 

The piggyback is used to massage the fuel signal when making changes but is not essential as long as the chips are mapped correctly.

For example; If you bought a MAF and chips from John with no other changes, you would not need the PB as he has a pretty good set of chips for the stock turbo. If you do add the PB now, you will be able adjust the fuel map to your car as each car is a little different. At this point you would be fine tuning only to perfect the AFR. The use of the PB requires either a dyno or wideband to determine your AFR so you can adjust the fuel as necessary.

Do a search for MAFs and Piggy backs as there is a ton if info in the archives.

 

Daniel, you are hired (Good advise).

 

Take John's advice, do it once and do it right. Take my advice having wasted money on a bunch of components that don't work together. Do chips and when you are ready to upgrade majorly by from John, the entire kit. There is no point to mix and match unless you want to have a different turbo than what John sells (but who the heck would). Good luck.

 

So if you got eg a Vitesse turbo, MAF, chips, injectors would the piggy back only really offer you a small % increase with finer tuning? Also is the piggy back redundent without something to read it's results with such as dyno &/or wideband? Therefore if you don't have access to either of these will you need a piggy back and will you miss it if you don't have it?