LR MAF TRAP + NACA Headlight Duct - Thanks For Posting Pic Goes 2 TheEdge
04-15-2006, 11:54 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by ApexCars
Damn $100 for a piece of curved fiberglass and some rubber molding.
04-16-2006, 04:12 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by ApexCars
Damn $100 for a piece of curved fiberglass and some rubber molding.
Originally Posted by gregeast
Thanks Lou, might have to give that a try.
When NZ951, was not banned, had done a lot wk in this area. He had a template that he posted, so one could copy his design It was pretty impressive
If you do a search it should be there
Regards
Ed
04-16-2006, 10:01 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by Crazy Eddie
Hey Guys
When NZ951, was not banned, had done a lot wk in this area. He had a template that he posted, so one could copy his design It was pretty impressive
If you do a search it should be there
Regards
Ed
When NZ951, was not banned, had done a lot wk in this area. He had a template that he posted, so one could copy his design It was pretty impressive
If you do a search it should be there
Regards
Ed
04-16-2006, 10:30 AM
#22
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My primary interest in the shield is to modulate the jet fighter sucking sounds that the MAF makes when I light up the afterburners.
Keeping hot air away from the intake too of course, but wrapping the headers & x-over seems to have helped that quite a bit on its own.
Keeping hot air away from the intake too of course, but wrapping the headers & x-over seems to have helped that quite a bit on its own.
04-16-2006, 04:46 PM
#23
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I wanted to retain a complete stock appearance and therefore I routed the cold air intake in a different way. The MAF sits directly infront of the turbo. The MAF is than connected to a 100mm diameter flexible tube that runs through the big hole through which also the stock air intake is routed. The air filter and its air box sits in the left fender (just enough space). The airbox gets ram air like the oil cooler does on the other side. The flexible tubes are of the type also used for brake cooling. You can get them in different diameters and they are quite smooth from the inside. Can´t post any pictuers but will mail if someone is interested. Cost me about 20$.
04-17-2006, 02:38 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by ehall
He also found that the duct itself was worthless. He routed air differently.
I stop following that thread, I know he was looking into different tests to see how effective it was ...I thought, at first, he saw a increase or should I say decrease in the temp of the air coming in vs the stock set up ....
I have to say, it sure looked great
Regards
Ed
ps What was the difference as to how he routed the air vs the Lindsey method ?
04-17-2006, 06:44 AM
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@thingo:
I used a K+N cone filter. Don´t remember the exact dimensions but looks the same size as the lindey once on the above pictures. It justs fits into the finder and does not require special mounting hardware. The air box is simply attained by sealing the front fender to the remaining bodywork. It is already pretty much sealed in stock condition, but you need to block it off the alternator cooling and the radiator duct. There is also a hole directly below the pup up light that needs closing. All very simple and easy to reach.
The problem I see with the LR trap is that there is no sufficient air supply to the trap. The only sicnificant air feed is though the original hole of the stock air intake in the side of the chassis (the one I used). With the LR trap this hole is blocked due to the filter itselfe. Unless you use a double cone filter, the only air supply would be throught the NACA ducts. Those seem very small to me. Also there should be suction above the headlights, no even thinking what might happen if the light are out!!
I used a K+N cone filter. Don´t remember the exact dimensions but looks the same size as the lindey once on the above pictures. It justs fits into the finder and does not require special mounting hardware. The air box is simply attained by sealing the front fender to the remaining bodywork. It is already pretty much sealed in stock condition, but you need to block it off the alternator cooling and the radiator duct. There is also a hole directly below the pup up light that needs closing. All very simple and easy to reach.
The problem I see with the LR trap is that there is no sufficient air supply to the trap. The only sicnificant air feed is though the original hole of the stock air intake in the side of the chassis (the one I used). With the LR trap this hole is blocked due to the filter itselfe. Unless you use a double cone filter, the only air supply would be throught the NACA ducts. Those seem very small to me. Also there should be suction above the headlights, no even thinking what might happen if the light are out!!
04-17-2006, 10:13 AM
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