Broken exhaust stud
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NorCal
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok I have a broken exhaust stud and I was wondering how much it would cost to get it removed? Its the last one closest to the firewall and theres no stud sticking out so Im guessing you have to drill it out. I was just wondering how much it would cost to remove with the car in running condition?
#2
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sorry about that. Hard to say what a shop would charge -- depends how much effort it takes...
Figure they have to remove the headers -- so figure a couple hours there to remove and replace, plus new gaskets and mabe some broken fasteners. Then figure an hour to get the stud out maybe helicoiling the stud hole. So, I say $300 if all goes by the book (unless they get lucky and can get the stud out without pulling the headers). Of course, my guess and $3 gets you a cup of coffee at Starbucks.
Figure they have to remove the headers -- so figure a couple hours there to remove and replace, plus new gaskets and mabe some broken fasteners. Then figure an hour to get the stud out maybe helicoiling the stud hole. So, I say $300 if all goes by the book (unless they get lucky and can get the stud out without pulling the headers). Of course, my guess and $3 gets you a cup of coffee at Starbucks.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#3
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sorry to hear about your dilemma.....
It may be a real challenge since the head of the stud is broken off, and you will need to drill it out.... the cost of labor is what may kill ya....
The shop will most likely have to take of the fuel lines and fuel regulator to create some space for the drill. It is just time consuming.
Another suggestion....this is sort of a temporary solution until the time when you are ready to do some major top-end work on the engine.....
Exhaust leaks may go away after the engine heats up. You will typically hear the "pfttt, pfttt, pftt" sound from the exhaust leak when the engine is running cold. If you are lucky, the exhaust header and the engine block will expand against each other, and cause "compression sealing". This will typically seal up the exhaust leak and actually make the problem go away after a few minutes of starting a engine from cold.
It may be a real challenge since the head of the stud is broken off, and you will need to drill it out.... the cost of labor is what may kill ya....
The shop will most likely have to take of the fuel lines and fuel regulator to create some space for the drill. It is just time consuming.
Another suggestion....this is sort of a temporary solution until the time when you are ready to do some major top-end work on the engine.....
Exhaust leaks may go away after the engine heats up. You will typically hear the "pfttt, pfttt, pftt" sound from the exhaust leak when the engine is running cold. If you are lucky, the exhaust header and the engine block will expand against each other, and cause "compression sealing". This will typically seal up the exhaust leak and actually make the problem go away after a few minutes of starting a engine from cold.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NorCal
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by ACG
Sorry to hear about your dilemma.....
It may be a real challenge since the head of the stud is broken off, and you will need to drill it out.... the cost of labor is what may kill ya....
The shop will most likely have to take of the fuel lines and fuel regulator to create some space for the drill. It is just time consuming.
Another suggestion....this is sort of a temporary solution until the time when you are ready to do some major top-end work on the engine.....
Exhaust leaks may go away after the engine heats up. You will typically hear the "pfttt, pfttt, pftt" sound from the exhaust leak when the engine is running cold. If you are lucky, the exhaust header and the engine block will expand against each other, and cause "compression sealing". This will typically seal up the exhaust leak and actually make the problem go away after a few minutes of starting a engine from cold.
It may be a real challenge since the head of the stud is broken off, and you will need to drill it out.... the cost of labor is what may kill ya....
The shop will most likely have to take of the fuel lines and fuel regulator to create some space for the drill. It is just time consuming.
Another suggestion....this is sort of a temporary solution until the time when you are ready to do some major top-end work on the engine.....
Exhaust leaks may go away after the engine heats up. You will typically hear the "pfttt, pfttt, pftt" sound from the exhaust leak when the engine is running cold. If you are lucky, the exhaust header and the engine block will expand against each other, and cause "compression sealing". This will typically seal up the exhaust leak and actually make the problem go away after a few minutes of starting a engine from cold.
That is exactly what I am getting
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The head will have to come off. Too tight to do anything while it is in the car. Remember that you are drilling out a hard stud in an aluminum head – the drill will much rather plow through the aluminum!
Chris White
Chris White
#7
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Santa Clara, Ca
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by mclarenno9
I have the same exact problem, same exact stud.... I am just going to wait until the head comes off or the engine is out of the car to do it I guess. ![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Chris White
The head will have to come off. Too tight to do anything while it is in the car. Remember that you are drilling out a hard stud in an aluminum head – the drill will much rather plow through the aluminum!
Chris White
Chris White
There's got to be a Ronco tool that'll get at it...I always thought a dentists drill would be handy in these situations.
#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The problem, other than the right angle part, is that you can’t see where you are going – very easy to wander with the drill – the harder stud will make it very difficult not to damage the head.
Besides, doesn’t everybody need practice in removing their head? It is not much more difficult to pull the head than removing the exhaust manifolds….you were going to remove the manifolds to drill the broken stud weren’t you??!
Chris White
After practice the 'head off' time is about 1.5 hours....
Besides, doesn’t everybody need practice in removing their head? It is not much more difficult to pull the head than removing the exhaust manifolds….you were going to remove the manifolds to drill the broken stud weren’t you??!
Chris White
After practice the 'head off' time is about 1.5 hours....
#10
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You need to do some shopping around. Try your dealer first. Ask them who they send there machine shop work to. Do the same thing at you local "Ricer" or Speed shops. Ask your friends who they use. Then go talk to each of these shops. Explain what happened and what you need. Removing a simple stud shouldn't add that much to having normal head head work done. If you do like I did and break an extractor off in the stud, then it will obviously cost you more.
While you'er at it, ask how much it will cost to have new valve guides installed. The parts are only about $4.00 each. You get new valve stem seals in the head gasket kit, so why not do the guides as well?
Also factor in the cost of new belts, and you may want to take a look at the water pump.
To give you a little more to go on, a shop in Charlotte NC charges a flat $168.00 to disassemble, clean, inspect and reassemble a head with new valve stem seals. Installing new valve quides was $20.00, and extracting my broken easy out was also $20.00. As always, YMMV.
While you'er at it, ask how much it will cost to have new valve guides installed. The parts are only about $4.00 each. You get new valve stem seals in the head gasket kit, so why not do the guides as well?
Also factor in the cost of new belts, and you may want to take a look at the water pump.
To give you a little more to go on, a shop in Charlotte NC charges a flat $168.00 to disassemble, clean, inspect and reassemble a head with new valve stem seals. Installing new valve quides was $20.00, and extracting my broken easy out was also $20.00. As always, YMMV.
#11
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
just had mine done..it was on # 2 ...dealer took of the cam housing, and headers,and used a "collared" reverse bit...came right out...since the cam and headers were off, we also replaced the gaskets...$500
car runs much quieter and smoother,especially at start up...
good luck...
car runs much quieter and smoother,especially at start up...
good luck...
![bigbye](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/xyxwave.gif)