Epic2112

I walked out to my garage this morning, and my cooling fans were on. The car started without a problem, so I don't know if they were on all night. Upon closer inspection I found that only the passenger side was on. I followed the instructions at clark's garage for testing the relay. No matter which pins I jumpered on the temp switch connector, either no fans went on, or only the passenger side was on. After putting it back together the passenger side fan stayed on again. So, it looks like I need a new relay, do I need a new fan motor for the driver's side fan also, or could the relay be keeping that fan off somehow?

mark944turbo

I fixed the same problem by switching a new relay in. For temporary use, i just unplugged that relay when I wasnt driving.

Epic2112

Yup, I did that too. I left the hood open in the garage so I don't forget to plug it in before I hit the road.

Epic2112

Holy shnikies, I just looked at what those things cost! Anyone know which slots I should jumper in the relay socket just to make sure that the relay is the problem? I don't want to drop $140 just to find out my relay isn't the issue.

hosrom_951

Look for a used one (contact Lartiga)

sayporsha

I have a couple - $45 shipped each.

ittia

My fans are running non-stop now and I looked at the Clark's garage write up on this and my question is how the heck do you get to this connection? Assuming I am looking at the correct one, "below the upper hose connection at the radiator" (step 2 bottom of page). http://clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-01.htm

I have removed the air box and the area is just too small for my fingers. Do I go from underneath? Also, can I just pull a fuse to get them to stop?

Sorry for such a noob question but I just got back from vacation a couple of hours ago and went to the store for some sugar for coffee....yea that's what we were out of , and would rather not let them run all night.

TIA

ittia

Interestingly enough, I went back out to the garage and was looking at the underside of the fuse box cover when I heard a fuse click and the fan stopped (power stopped) for 0.001 seconds and then came back on. Pulled the fuse and will get a new one tomorrow. Anyone see any harm in simply plugging it back in and running to a shop?

Thanks and

chris951

dude, it could be the relay, I had the same issue, however, it was not the relay, it was the temp sensor on the radiator that was bad. It's like $15 compared to the expensive relay. Unplug the temp sensor on the drivers side of the radiator underneath the radiator hose. Try this.

ittia

Chris: Thanks for the reply and I did see that at Clark's. Again though, what is the best way to get to this connection? As far as I can tell, you need to go in from the bottom to unplug it as the space from above is just too limited.

Thanks and have a great day!

ittia

Also, are we talking about:
Fan Relay: 944-615-104-03-M76 (http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item1)
or
Thermo-fan switch - 85/93 degrees: 951-606-481-00-85-M2 (http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0)

BTW, did the part number change for the RELAY? My relay has a part number of 944.615.104.02. Keeping in mind that my 951 is a EURO spec and parts are made better all the time and they change the #'s as they go.

Thanks

dacula951

Yes, getting to the thermo-switch is easier from underneath. It's not a picnic to change from there, but doable without removing things.

ittia

I did a search here for "thermo-fan" and came up w/2 results. How does one determine which thermo-fan switch is needed for thier 951? At Pelican there three different ones all for MY 86-89:
75 degrees C
85/93 degrees C
92/102 degrees C

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item1

In the workshop manual, the picture shows a switch with 92º 87º stamped on it

TIA and have a great day,
ITTIA