I am pulling the head this weekend to see how the cylinders look. I am anticipating piston rings, rod bearings ( since I'm in there). I have been reading the haynes manual. From what I have read I need bore specs, piston specs, ring gap specs, torque specs on the rod bolts. This is my first time doing this. I'm all set with cold bevearges that will be close by.

 

If you have to bore, if your cylinders are scratched or are egg shaped, you will have to explore pistons options and that's not cheap. If you have to bore, you bore the cylinder to match the piston, which usually comes with rings.

 

Bret,

But I have to first determine if boring is needed right? I have to take measurements to determine that. WHat are acceptable measurements for bore, piston, ring gap, et., and where do I find this data.

 

yes u have to see how badly the cylinder walls or scored or wore. I know if it is bad enough you will have to buy a bigger set of pistons in which cost $$$. If you don't want to sleeve ur block u have to buy pistons to work in your ausil block and little bigger then stock in which cost around 1000 bucks by itself plus you have to pay someone to machine the block to fit each piston exactly. If you go to the sleeving route then it will cost around 2750 to have a good shop do it including pistons and rings. This is one reason why i gave up on my car and after paying another shop to do this kinda of work by putting new rings etc. and ended up putting broken piston skirts pistons in my car etc.. and all the work i had done costed me another 2800 bucks. you get the point though. sorry for going little off topic just the subject pisses me off somethimes thinking about that shop

 

I did a search here. I do have an electronic copy of the shop manual which I will check out. But it looks like this is the info:

 

You need to check it with a bore dial indicator. If you don't have any scratches you can get away without refreshing the cylinders (new rings) for a few years or IF the cylinders are good, you can pull the engine and just have the walls refreshed with the stone/felt/paste process from Sunnen and a good machine shop. If you have to bore it, you will need the next oversize piston(s), 100.5. Porsche are $1600 with rings, Tom C are $1100 with rings...+ shop work. Then add all the bearings, seals, gaskets...it starts adding up quickly but you will have a new engine to hopefully give you years of enjoyment.

 

Is there any difference between using a dial gauge indicator and just the bore gauges with a micrometer?

 

The bore gauge measures all the way to the opposite sides, lets you go up and down the cylinders, and checking at different angles, watching the needle for any sudden movements.