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HOW DO YOU KILL THE ALARM???

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Old 03-05-2006 | 03:34 PM
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You might want to find out what is setting it off in the first place. Probably one of the door contacts switches has shorted, or the hood, or hatch. I hate the factory alarm but my after market unit has a bad design also where everytime I disconnect the battery it goes off when I reconnect. Loud as hell but all it takes is the usual key 'on' push hidden button reset.
Old 03-05-2006 | 03:41 PM
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No need to cut anything. Take two pieces of 12 or 14AWG wire and crimp male spade plugs on each end. Take one of them and plug it into the big connector on pins 1 and 4. Take the second and plug it into the big connector on pins 7 and 8. Voila, you are done.

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Old 03-05-2006 | 03:52 PM
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You might want to find out what is setting it off in the first place. Probably one of the door contacts switches has shorted, or the hood, or hatch.

Good point. Although if the alarm is not on, the door/hatch, etc. contacts would not set it off. Wouldn't it have to be a short in the alarm system/controller itself?

Ok, Scott, thanks

Just curious, is that box just for the alarm/horns or does it serve other purposes?

As I tried just pulling the small plug and was ok; no alarm and still had use of the horn.
Old 03-05-2006 | 04:05 PM
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Those black boxes are often times the culprit, more often than not, in my experience.

The box is just for the alarm, but it will shut down the DME if not jumped properly.

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Old 03-05-2006 | 06:07 PM
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OMG! I thought I was the only one with this problem. I first shaved and painted the hole where the factory key was. Taped the wires up. Big draw on the battery and the damn thing would intermitently(spell check) go off and lock the ignition from turning over. Finally, went into the black box under passenger carpet. somehow water got into it caused a short and corroded the plugs. Sweanders is right, twenty year old alarm does nothing but get noisy and is in no way a theft deterent. Go after market but, and this is very important, make sure all wires and fuses are much higher gauge as the power window motors are slow and take a lot of power to power with alarm functions. I've had my clifford for over 8 years now. Still locked and armed in my alarmed and locked garage, with cameras, and four guard dogs. No joke, and I still don't trust anyone...lol.
Old 03-06-2006 | 10:04 AM
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"The box is just for the alarm, but it will shut down the DME if not jumped properly."

Then that explains while unplugging the small (pwr) plug fixed the problem, but I have the engine warning/air bag light on. I guess I will have to jump it then.

So if you choose to take out the alarm, it will kill the DME?

"thing would intermitently(spell check) go off and lock the ignition from turning over." This is exaclty what happend to me in the parking lot of the grocery strore. i pulled the fuses and relays and no help. finally, it turned over and the alarm stopped, but set the DME into limp mode the whole way home. Pulled the - bat. and then put back on and all was well, but the alarm kept going off. Pulled the plug and fixed it, but as I said, the warning/air bag light is on.

Is it possible that the DME jsut needs to be reset to get the light off? IIRC, you ahve to reset it for exaclty 30 seconds or something to get the light to go off. ???
Old 03-07-2006 | 11:02 AM
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OK, I assume it is:

1,2,3,4
5,6,7,8

Looking at the plug from the front?
Old 03-07-2006 | 01:52 PM
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Take a look on Clarks Garage, he's got a diagram of it.

Regards,



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