Tedesco, very impressive. Thanks a lot, your site is very informative indeed.

 

Joe, what weight redux stuff do you have?

 

Joe, I really don't care too much about the way the interior looks or even noise, my wife don't like the car anyway so I ussually drive alone. Lexan windows and hutch would be ideal, but I don't think that they are street legal in California, also I am planning to remove the carpeting and pading, install the Ac delete kit.
What about the power windows can they be converted to manual?

Joe, you also asked how much I am willing to spend. Well let me see, a new cam, larger, injectors piggyback and chips would give me a another 30-40rwhp the cost is around $ 2200.00. Maybe I have an extra $ 1500.00 to spend

 

Luis, are you wanting interior stuff removed - insulation and stuff? Widow regulators, glass?

click on the track car link, JAB racing and take a look at the items removed. Now, had we left the headlight and turnsignal stalk, I guess it would have still been streetable, brake lights do work. Anyway, the track car weighs in 2552# with 1/2 tank of 104.

All insulation/carpet/interior trim/ gone, door glass/regulators gone, air bags gone, blower motor/heater core gone, fender liners, cruise control brain/solenoid, headliner/sunroof interior panel, all headlight items, washer tank, water cross over pipe, A/C delete bracket lt weight s.s. exhaust system - this was MY 87.

 

Bret, yes I will look at your site. I don't keep my head lights anyway I would like to delete the lights up & down motor and bar. I just want to keep the fog lights and signal lights front and rear. Also if i want it to remove the heater core do I need to remove the dash?

 

yes, but there are great write ups on it if you haven't done but with your parting experience, I don't think that will be an issue, time consuming but not an issue.

I tell you what, getting 500-700# out of these cars, when you get in the boost, it's like a damn light switch!!!

 

Parting experience, lol. I just bought another 1986 951 2 days ago, it came out on autotrader for $ 2500.00. the guy who sold it to me is 20 years old, he didn't know why the car had died. I ended up paying $ 2400.00, After I picked up the car with a trailer I came home and swap the dme with one I had and vrooom it started. I am parting that car next week that will be the 4th 951 that I part out. lol.

I wil be changing my screen name to 951-junky l

 

Ok, I know it has been said before, but I can't find it, when you remove X amount of weight is the same as adding X amount of power to the car. I can't remember what the factor is because when I go down this road it helps to justify lighter VS cost to get more power.

 

I think the lbs/hp ratio is 17.68:1, lbs/tq ratio is 18.12:1. So, if you cut 400lbs, you would effectively gain 22.6hp and 22.0tq.

Also, keep in mind that doesn't factor in the improved handling that you will also get, plus the ability to add strategically-placed ballast if you are under-weight for a certain competitive class.

 

one thing I MUST state clear: The internet page I refference to is NOT MINE !!! Somebody else spend all the time collecting this very valuable information. He realy did a fantastic job.
My only achivemnt was to post the link because it fitted in the context. There are only the few remarks from my side which I posted because I ran through the same process twice.

 

I had no idea adding a larger wing and splitter helped reduce weight.

 

They are lighter than the stock batwing and heavy rubber spoiler.

Forgot to add fender liners, anything relating to headlight or winshield washers, no airbags, or abs to that list.

 

Stripped interior of everything.

A/C, heat, headlights, heat shielding between engine & fire wall... basicly everything that was bolted or glued in. Only "replaced" item was manual steering vs power rack and two race seats & harnesses.

 

Power windows can be converted. They can also be simply removed or the glass replaced with Lexan.

Driving a stripped car on the street with a bare metal interior is not very fun thing. Car gets very loud since any noise resonates through the interior. A light carpet would probably help alot as it would absorb some sound other wise bouncing around.

For me it is a race car and track car so I don't give darn how loud it is inside the car. I did car greatly about cost so that drove most of my weight redutions. Really the car is probably abotu 2400lbs if I pull the 40lbs of ballast and the passenger's seat. I also am running a full size battery so you could run 5-8lbs lawnmower batter or similar and save some weight (I think there was tread on lightweight batteries in past few months with all the details).

 

UPDATE, UPDATE; I just broke my 89 944 turbo lsd transmission, I was on the fwy early this morning and did a 2nd gear pull and kaboom and right away a loud rattleling noise came from the tranny, at first I thought it was the clutch but when I pressed down to disengage the clutch the noise stopped and as soon as I release the clutch to engage it, even if the tranny is in neutral the rattle noise comes back.. I think it is the 2nd gear on the tranny, that's what I have been able to diagnose. I have disengage the coupler between the tranny and the torque shaft and if you manually rotate the torque shaft from the clutch it runs smoothly but when you rotate the tranny shaft it grinds a little and it doesn’t rotate smoothly as it should..