I thought it seemed low too but the first few times I took the car out the turbo spooled right up and I was able to break the rear end loose in second gear at about 4,000 rpms.
Vacuum was that low before the problem though. It does sound like there is a vacuum leak between the head and intake manifold. wish I had a way to pressure the intake system. Might have to it the old fashion way and use a can of starting fluid.

 

Vacum does sound low
Typical I've heard of is 16-18 in Hg which is about 8psi.
Although as you mentioned, it was the same before this problem occured.

I would try the MBC, you dont have to wait for it to warm up to crawl under the car to do it...
You could also just clamp the line to the WG and be careful with your right foot (boost will build fast, no more boost control).

 

I figured I would install the MBC as it will only take about 10 minutes. I think it is supposed to get up to 20 tomorrow so if the MBC does not work I guess I will be crawling underneath it then.

 

I think for peace of mind I would check to see nothing is rubbing the impellar. Lots of people have posted Low boost problems and found a small bolt had come loose and got stuck trying to get through the impellar.

Lou

 

Just a quick update, I tightened up the intake manifold and vacuum at idle went from -5.4 psi to -6.8 psi. Idle speed also rose almost 400 rpm. I also checked the turbo and it is fine. Car still will not start when hot so I have to wait for it to cool down before I can restart it an check the EBC.

 

I found out why I have no boost. The plunger on the solinoid for the EBC broke. Once I replaced it with the MBC I now have boost again!
Now though I am beginning to wonder what turbo I really have. It is supposed to be a SFR stage one but boost does not hit until almost 3800 RPM's. When it does hit though all hell breaks loose. I am running 245/45/16 in the back and at as soon as boost hits in second the tires just light up. This running the stock AFM and only 15psi of boost as I still have not had a chance to hook up the wideband yet.
I still have the no start problem when the engine is hot but I did some expermenting and found something interesting. I can crank the starter all day when the car is warm and the car tries to start but will not. If though I spray stater fluid into the AFM the car starts right up! This tells me it is not a speed or reference sensor problem but some sort of gas flow issue.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated as it is a pain to remove the air filter everytime I want to the car when it is warm.
Thanks in advance