sl951

Are there many folks out there running 'Dry' center section turbos?
Meaning, you only have oil going through the turbo versus oil and coolant lines.

With better Synthetic oils and ball bearing turbos nows, just wondering if I can remove the coolant system from the turbo and get a 'Dry' Center section. Most turbos are 'Dry' now a days (from what I've been told). I haven't heard oil coking issues in a long time. Removing the coolant would be one less system to deal with.

thoughts?
-S

Chris Prack

I have done this many times with no adverse effects.

Ski

I think most in the market today have some small amount of water. I run oil cooled only and I run valvoline 20/50 racing. I'm done with "leaky a$$, POS after the merger motor oil" = Mobil 1. So are many others.

If you change your oil, let the car cool down a little, mainly after hard driving, you will be fine. If the car is a daily driver and you can't always do that, then maybe H20 is an aid in longevity. The oil cooled only certianly eliviates a lot of hardware not to have to mess with any more.

Many opinions here on this, many experiences, and it was debated a few months ago. It really boils down to your own personal preference. I'm doing an engine for a friend, LR 340 kit, and we're leaving the water on the turbo because his wife drives the car - and she CAN drive it too!

sl951

Experience is what I'm looking for - our cars are 20 years old now (Happy Birthday by the way), so there has to be some good data on many different configs. If you have a dry turbo with many miles please respond.... I'll feel more confident.
It would be great not to deal with the Turbo H2o Pump and hoses!

Ski

I have 5 years on my oil cooled only, about 12k since my complete refresh, and I drive this car hard at times but I take very good care of it. The turbo spins more free today then when new. I have the same turbo on a track car - both perform flawlessly. Link in the sig for pics and progress of both

MR951

My first MR-2 turbo has a GReddy turbo kit which was a dry (oil cooled only) Mitsubishi 20G turbo (the stock turbo it replaced was water/oil cooled). The car is driven hard and the turbo is still fine some 7 years later. The car gets regular synthetic oil change and idles for a minute or two before shutdown.

cpt_koolbeenz

If you get a dry turbo, you should get a turbo timer... Or let your car cool down every time you turn it off.

Douglas Sorrells

I am running a dry SFR stage II turbo. I have only had this turbo for about 10,000 miles, but am very pleased with it. My car only has about 80,000 miles and had the engine rebuilt about 12,000 miles ago. All the water cooling hoses along with the mini water pump have been removed. It was very nice to get rid of those hoses as it really cleans up the engine compartment in that area and also eliminates about 4-5 hoses that could rupture.

Lars944

But is it just to bolt up the waterconnections? or does it use special centerparts the non water ones?


Lars

slownrusty

Do what this man says....!! That is why there is coolant running through your turbo!

Yasin
P.S: I am in COS as well.

Ski

On the water pump, you simply put a block off plate, some actually look like the hose outlet, they just havn't been drilled out. You have to have a NA expansion tank, well you should. All the water crossover pipe and connections are gone, pump too. Looking down on the radiator, you have 1 hose that goes from the upper left connection over to the lowe part of the NA expansion tank.

Sorry for the quality

sl951

Thanks for the input. I'm going to try the dry.
Got to figure if Dry turbo's were a bad thing the major turbo manufactures wouldn't warranty them or build them.

Water leaks - be gone! as well as custom To4-E adapter things!