968 Caster Block Torque Specs
#4
bump for a question.
I read somewhere (and ofcourse I can't find it) that it was better to change the caster blocks while the car is on ramps as opposed to jack stands, so that the arms are loaded. Is that even remotely correct, or was I remembering something totally different? (Sorry too much beer induced brain cell/short term memory loss. )
TIA GEnts, and lady or two.
I read somewhere (and ofcourse I can't find it) that it was better to change the caster blocks while the car is on ramps as opposed to jack stands, so that the arms are loaded. Is that even remotely correct, or was I remembering something totally different? (Sorry too much beer induced brain cell/short term memory loss. )
TIA GEnts, and lady or two.
#5
You can change them whichever way you want, but the suspension MUST be loaded when you tighten the nut on the bolt that goes through the caster block's hole. This can be via ramp, but I did it with the car on stands then using the jack under the strut to lift it up. IMHO thats the safest way, I wouldnt want to unbolt half the front control arm while its got 700 pounds or so on it.
Reason being, that if you tighten it down with no load on the suspension, as soon as you put load on it the rubber will be sheered off and youll ruin the caster block because it cant cope with the huge difference between loaded and unloaded.
Reason being, that if you tighten it down with no load on the suspension, as soon as you put load on it the rubber will be sheered off and youll ruin the caster block because it cant cope with the huge difference between loaded and unloaded.
#6
Thanks Brian. That makes good sense. I'm always paranoid under a car anyway.I may use ramps, and use a jack stand to support the A-arm. I hate being under the car on stands alone, and it will be just enough of a reach.