Momo horn button is kicking my butt! Help!
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Momo horn button is kicking my butt! Help!
Ok,
So I have the 928 pin, drilled the hole in the multi switch in pin 71. Figured out a way to attach the ground/horn lead to it. Do that, make sure the 928 pin is making contact with the momo hub. Plug the black wire from the hub into the horn button, run the other wire from the top ring of the hub to the horn.
Turn the car on, hit the horn, nothing! Pull the hub, make sure the 928 pin is making contact, still nothing. Pull the multi switch, make sure the horn ground is on, yep.
I've done everything short of cutting off the factory connector from that horn ground and holding it up against the momo hub (which I don't wanna do just in case I ever put airbags back in the car) and the horn still doesn't freaking work!
Need a little help here. On a positive note, I was successful in wiring past the airbag computer, no warning lights and the car did start, but I want my horn to work dammit!
So I have the 928 pin, drilled the hole in the multi switch in pin 71. Figured out a way to attach the ground/horn lead to it. Do that, make sure the 928 pin is making contact with the momo hub. Plug the black wire from the hub into the horn button, run the other wire from the top ring of the hub to the horn.
Turn the car on, hit the horn, nothing! Pull the hub, make sure the 928 pin is making contact, still nothing. Pull the multi switch, make sure the horn ground is on, yep.
I've done everything short of cutting off the factory connector from that horn ground and holding it up against the momo hub (which I don't wanna do just in case I ever put airbags back in the car) and the horn still doesn't freaking work!
Need a little help here. On a positive note, I was successful in wiring past the airbag computer, no warning lights and the car did start, but I want my horn to work dammit!
#2
Rennlist Member
I am not exactly sure about your set up, but have you tried grounding it to the nut that holds the hub on. My friend has a sparco with a momo hub and it wouldn't work either he had to run a ground down to the base. I know his was suposed to ground to the wheel itself.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I followed the instructions on this link. I bought another harness plug end to modify, that way I didn't have to cut my harness, so if I ever want to go back, I just have to plug everything back in.
http://www.944s2.com/default.htm
http://www.944s2.com/default.htm
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Didn't get the horn to work yet, but the airbag disable works fine. I have to work on the car when my daughter is napping, so I don't have alot of time to troubleshoot...
#7
Race Car
Oh, I see, I had a brain fart. I thought you wired around the driver's airbag only. I wonder if one could just place a resistor in place of the airbag. I'd like to retain the passenger airbag, just can't afford to replace the driver's right now. Seems everybody wants $250 for a used airbag, I only wanted to spend $50...
Perhaps somebody knows the resistance of the driver's airbag, and maybe I can just wire in a resistor for now.
(sorry for semi-hijacking your thread)
Perhaps somebody knows the resistance of the driver's airbag, and maybe I can just wire in a resistor for now.
(sorry for semi-hijacking your thread)
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#9
Race Car
Yeah, but I want to turn the damn warning lights off. I need to figure out how to cancel the oil level warning light (don't have the sensor, have an 86 engine in an 87 shell), then the airbag lights, so that the master caution light will go out again. If somebody knew the resistance of the driver's airbag, I could just wire a resistor in. Then if ever the airbags were needed, my passenger would still be protected. With the driver's airbag disconnected or out, I believe both airbags are disabled.
#10
I shoud specify that I disconnected the driver airbag and for a while left the passenger connected.
As to eliminating the ! light, I chose to cut the wire from the airbag controller that causes the light to illuminate. This, also, retains the fuel cut-off feature such that if you are in an accident, the fuel pump is disabled.
As to eliminating the ! light, I chose to cut the wire from the airbag controller that causes the light to illuminate. This, also, retains the fuel cut-off feature such that if you are in an accident, the fuel pump is disabled.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The resistance across the drivers airbag is 2.2 ohms, 1.5watts. You can use a 3 ohm resistor tho. If you can't find one of those, use 3 10 ohm resistors wired in parallel.
You're not going to find a used airbag anywhere for $50, that's just an unrealistic price given how expensive they are to begin with...
You're not going to find a used airbag anywhere for $50, that's just an unrealistic price given how expensive they are to begin with...
#12
Race Car
I think that's stupid. Why is a used airbag worth so damn much. So many people remove them to upgrade their wheels, or for other reasons. I'd understand if I wanted the whole wheel, or entire airbag setup, then $250 sounds good.
Oh well, I can live without it, and if it's going to be $250 for a used one, forget it.
2.2 ohm, 1.5 watt. I might be able to find a 2 or 3 watt 2.2 ohm resistor, but probably not a 1.5 watt. It shouldn't matter though. Thanks for the info.
I'd like to retain the warning light in case something goes wrong with the passenger airbag (if it does, I'll be pulling the whole damn system), or so I at least know if they are going to work.
Oh well, I can live without it, and if it's going to be $250 for a used one, forget it.
2.2 ohm, 1.5 watt. I might be able to find a 2 or 3 watt 2.2 ohm resistor, but probably not a 1.5 watt. It shouldn't matter though. Thanks for the info.
I'd like to retain the warning light in case something goes wrong with the passenger airbag (if it does, I'll be pulling the whole damn system), or so I at least know if they are going to work.
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Because that's what they're worth. They're stupid expensive from the dealer, and junkyards want good money for em because they are in demand. That's not to say you won't get lucky and score one from someone prepping their car for club racing, but $50 is a serious buddy deal...
#14
Race Car
That's just like buying shocks for our cars. I can buy koni coil-overs for all 4 corners on my golf for what a set of rears costs on the 951.
Never going to pay $250 for a 20-year old airbag. Not a chance.
If one comes up for $50, I'll take it, otherwise I think I'm just going to wire around it.
Never going to pay $250 for a 20-year old airbag. Not a chance.
If one comes up for $50, I'll take it, otherwise I think I'm just going to wire around it.