EJ

Well I was hoping for 300+ rwhp but it is what it is. First time on a dyno so it was a learning experience. Running 15 psi boost, 93 octane pump gas, temp 60 F.
Any ideas on how to get above 300 would be welcomed (other than "turn up the boost"). Thanks, Eric

daniel951

how much money u willing to spend to get 300rwhp at 15psi. My car did really well with just bolt ons and made 315rwhp at 13psi. I have basically the same mods as u but a 60-1 instead of a vitesse. Maybe its because they say i have higher compression .i bet if you get ur head PP then u should obtain those #'s

porshhhh951

what other supporting mods do you have. I would think you should be in the 310-320rwhp with the vitesse stage 3 supporting mods running 15psi or so.

EJ

My signature lists all of my mods.
Eric

fast951

EJ, This is the OLD Stage 2 correct? The graph is not bad, very flat torque curve. The area under the curve is very nice. However there is some left to be made..

Few comments:
- I assume you dynoed the car in 4th gear? How accurate is the boost gauge, this is more like a 14psi run...
- Your AFR should be a tad richer.. You should be at 12:1 3-3.5K and 11.5-11.8:1 over 3.5K
- Your "reliaboost" boost controller, is it a ball-and-spring type? If yes, it should be changed to a bleeder type controller.

You will be over 300 in no time, just a bit more tweeking.

special tool

Also - the most important aspect of tuning a 951 is to make sure you have zero leaks between head and turbo on intake AND exhaust sides.

There are so many unions on these cars that are going to be leaking, it will make your head spin.
-If that grey/black plastic venturi tee (press-fit by the way) is leaking, it will cost you 50 horsepwer.
-The cracks in the vee of your 2/3 header will cost you 35 horse.
-The hair crack in those stupid hoses between intake runners 4/3 and 3/2 will cost about 10 horse.
-Your blown manifold gaskets could cost you big

EJ

Yes this is the old stage two (you sent it back for some reworking) and I get full boost at 3200 rpm.
Yes the car was dyno'ed in 4th gear.
The boost is what I was reading with the boost gauge I got with my zeitronix wide band.
I will richen up the curve a little.
Yes that is the old reliaboost, Which new controller do you recommend?
Thanks, Eric

EJ

Sorry, I forgot to add My Swiss venturi delete kit in my sig.
Eric
I guess I need to start looking for leaks!

fast951

Eric, making sure there are no leaks goes without saying. For a boost controller, get an air compressor bleeder valve/regulator (Home Depot for $20 or so). Of course, make sure the WG/Boost Controller are functioning properly..

Did you by any change log the run? It appears that your boost is dropping some at 3600-3700rpm then at 5900rpm...

The same setup you have made over 310rwhp (I din't recall the exact figure) on JWL's car.. Might be a good idea to compare the charts with him (assuming he still has it).

How does the car feel on the road?

edit: which FQS # were you using?

EJ

The car feels great on the road! Full boost by 3200 rpms and it pulls hard to red line. I will see about getting a new boost controller. Have to check the FQS setting. I will try and check all hoses for leaks.
Eric

porshhhh951

let us know how everything works out.

awilson40

Just curious, what makes this a better type of MBC than the ball and spring type ??

Thanks

fast951

With dual port WG you want to ge the signal keeping the WG close as soon as possible. Ball&Spring type delays the signal till the pressure is higher than the spring's tension.

awilson40

Interesting...Thanks
Does that hold true for EBC's also ?

fast951

EBC does it all by itself.