Engine removal - oil cooler lines and harness
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi All,
I'm in the process of dropping the engine in my 944 Turbo. I have a couple questions while I wait for some wrenches to be shipped.
1) Oil cooler lines: Where is the best place to disconnect these? Will the hard line at the front of the engine interfere if I remove the one line there? It appears to be stuck on there pretty good though.
2) Wiring harness: Can I just disconnect all the sensors and wires from the engine and leave the harness running to the computers in place and leave all the harnesses connected to the firewall? Same question for the battery cables. Can I leave them in the battery compartment?
Thanks,
Mark
I'm in the process of dropping the engine in my 944 Turbo. I have a couple questions while I wait for some wrenches to be shipped.
1) Oil cooler lines: Where is the best place to disconnect these? Will the hard line at the front of the engine interfere if I remove the one line there? It appears to be stuck on there pretty good though.
2) Wiring harness: Can I just disconnect all the sensors and wires from the engine and leave the harness running to the computers in place and leave all the harnesses connected to the firewall? Same question for the battery cables. Can I leave them in the battery compartment?
Thanks,
Mark
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
By dropping it, I'm assuming youre removing it...
I removed the engine from the top. IT'S A BIG PITA! I did't have enough height for dropping it.
1) I just removed it complete with the oil cooler since that line was REALLY stuck and then unscrewed it from the filter housing side.
2) I also left all the wiring in place (on the car) but it's almost double the work in order to clear everything. Plus had to splice the oil sender wiring since I want to put connectors to make it easier next time.
For top removal, you will have to remove the damper and the front lights bar. If you have the clearance, do it from below th right way by removing al the suspension and crossbar.
I removed the engine from the top. IT'S A BIG PITA! I did't have enough height for dropping it.
1) I just removed it complete with the oil cooler since that line was REALLY stuck and then unscrewed it from the filter housing side.
2) I also left all the wiring in place (on the car) but it's almost double the work in order to clear everything. Plus had to splice the oil sender wiring since I want to put connectors to make it easier next time.
For top removal, you will have to remove the damper and the front lights bar. If you have the clearance, do it from below th right way by removing al the suspension and crossbar.
#3
Drifting
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Tucson AZ, Dallas Tx sometimes
Posts: 2,966
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
just rermove the engine with the oil cooler attached.
As for wiring, pull the DME and LKR harnesses and remove the rubber boot from the firewall, it is the easiest.
Also drop the motor from the bottom, put it opn some cardboard or carpet and slide it out.
I did it a few months ago for the first time and it took about 8 hours to do while taking my time and drinking some beer.
As for wiring, pull the DME and LKR harnesses and remove the rubber boot from the firewall, it is the easiest.
Also drop the motor from the bottom, put it opn some cardboard or carpet and slide it out.
I did it a few months ago for the first time and it took about 8 hours to do while taking my time and drinking some beer.
#4
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Agreed. Leave the oil cooler and lines connected and un-bolt the cooler housing from the radiator support frame.
Leave the wiring harness installed on the engine and pull the DME/KLR wiring through the hole in the firewall. You will have to disconnect the plug connector in front of the fuse box. The battery/starter wiring can stay in place, but you need to take off the cable clamps for those on the clutch bell housing above the starter. There is a wire connection for the alternator that needs to be disconnected behind the brake booster.
I dropped the engine out the bottom and onto a creeper, which made it very easy to roll/move around.
Leave the wiring harness installed on the engine and pull the DME/KLR wiring through the hole in the firewall. You will have to disconnect the plug connector in front of the fuse box. The battery/starter wiring can stay in place, but you need to take off the cable clamps for those on the clutch bell housing above the starter. There is a wire connection for the alternator that needs to be disconnected behind the brake booster.
I dropped the engine out the bottom and onto a creeper, which made it very easy to roll/move around.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Drop the engine out the bottom. If you lower it onto something to slide it using the hoist (which I assume youre using) then attach a chain to each of the big black looops, one on each frame rail. Lift the front of the car up with the hoist, slide the engine out the side/side front corner, lower the car back down.
Thats what I did for my engine install. Very easy. I took the engine out the top, ROYAL pain in the ***.
Thats what I did for my engine install. Very easy. I took the engine out the top, ROYAL pain in the ***.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks, I plan on removing it out the bottom. I still have to get a hoist. I have the head off so I'm planning on making a bracket for the rear two head studs and put an eye in the middle of it for the rear attachment point.
Mark
Mark