Mike S

Just a quick note for those considering some suspension refurbishing. I just completed the installation of the front monoball and the trailing arm monoball ( stuck with the updated rear caster block (stock) since mine were new).

Install -

You will have to completely remove the metal insert, rubber bushings and the steel race that are in the front control arm and rear trailing arm. For the front trailing arm you can undo a few bolts (I was redoing ball joints) and pull the arm out to work on it. Getting the old races out was horribly difficult. I tried the torch method, I tried the hammering method....in the end it was a serious beating from the hammer and chisel to knock it out from the inside. Once you get one side out you can use a large socket to pount the other out (they are split in two).

For the rear.....may the force be with you. I was doing torsion bars, so I had mine apart anyways, but you will have to pull the whole arm out to get at the bushings. That means taking the rear brake lines off, axle shafts, torsion assembly....blah blah blah....curse here. Once you have done that you can repeat the same beating that you provided to the front arms. It's not fun...but it has to be done. The rears came out easier on mine since they were in better shape (I assume to less heat from being farther away from the brakes).

Now...to install, you pretty much slip them in place (I put mine in the freezer to make it easier) and tap them with a mallet to seat them. The rear monoballs require that you drill a tiny hold in the nut to insert a cotter pin, which is a pain but necessary.

Impressions -
The front was done first and I could really feel the difference in the suspension action. The springs actually feel like they are doing something now, where they seemed stiff before (my stock bushings were painfully bad). I didn't notice any increased noise or harshness (actually...seems more compliant now).

The rears were done second and I did notice a slight increase in road noise with those for some reason, although I also increased the rear torsion bar size at the same time so that could be it. It just seems like the rear has a more pronounced (thunk or thud) when hitting big bumps. Could be my imagination though.

Anyways....thumbs up from me on this upgrade. Much better than stock and since they are sealed, I hope to never have to touch them again.

Elephant Racing

Bill

Mike,

Congrats on your install.

I also have the full Elephant Racing set-up and my comments mirror yours. Compliant yet not stiff. No squeeks or additional road noise. Serviceable with grease fittings. Far superior to Delron or Poly or any other setup.

I used S.S. safety wire in lieu of the cotter pin. Easier and as secure.

I also just install new T-Bars. While the T-Bar housing was out (yes, words deadly to the pocket book), I decided to have it powder coated gloss black. Unfortunately I did not remove the Poly Bronze bushings. The 250 degree heat to cure the powder melted the Poly that surounds the bronze bearing. Then the powder coater enters the oven and sees the bronze bearing lying on the floor under the housing and says "Where did these come from, guess I better powder coat them". I had to order up another Poly Bronze bushing set from Chuck. $hit happens.

Mike S

Ha ha haaa.....that's just wrong. Plain wrong! Well, at least the elephant racing bearings will come out easier than the stock ones. My stock ones were pretty much welded to the aluminum.

theedge

Glad theyre getting good reviews. I have a set of the front monoballs that im looking forward to driving on. Ive also been thinking about the PolyBronze ones.