cv boot
#2
Drifting
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If you're doing it yourself, no...
It is a PITA, though, as you have to remove the axle, remove the CV joint, switch boots, then reassemble. It's a messy job, too, because everything is greasy. I don't know what the book hours are for the job, but I'd bet it's at least 2. An experienced mechanic could probably replace it in an hour.
If your boot has been torn for some time, you may have introduced dirt and grit into the joint. Don't be surprised if the joint needs to be replaced soon as well. Also consider having the joint disassembled and cleaned to get the old grease and crud out.
While you have the axle off the car and the mechanic's hands greasy, might as well replace the other boot. Seems when one cracks the other isn't far behind.
It is a PITA, though, as you have to remove the axle, remove the CV joint, switch boots, then reassemble. It's a messy job, too, because everything is greasy. I don't know what the book hours are for the job, but I'd bet it's at least 2. An experienced mechanic could probably replace it in an hour.
If your boot has been torn for some time, you may have introduced dirt and grit into the joint. Don't be surprised if the joint needs to be replaced soon as well. Also consider having the joint disassembled and cleaned to get the old grease and crud out.
While you have the axle off the car and the mechanic's hands greasy, might as well replace the other boot. Seems when one cracks the other isn't far behind.
#3
Burning Brakes
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this is a job that you can definatly do yourself.people think oh my god its a porsche...you cant work on it yourself...i can swap axle bearings in 25 minutes(a side) and have done many times while at the track between run sessions..ive taken my turbo out 3 times and now can take it out and put it back in about 6 hrs...for a dealer to charge you 2 hrs ...it seems like robbery....you will need a german star bit for your ratchet. you can get it at sears (i forget the size ..just do a search)and plenty of latex gloves oh and bearing grease..just what jerome said it is messy...good luck
#5
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Follow the steps from Clark:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-01.htm
It re-defines messy, other than that, it is very straight forward and simple.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-01.htm
It re-defines messy, other than that, it is very straight forward and simple.
#6
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You may also want to consider just swapping in a rebuilt axle. As folks already mentioned, the CV is probably already shot on the side with the torn boot so you may have to rebuild it anyways. Why not just get a rebuilt axle with two new CV joints and replace the whole thing instead of messing with the CV joints individually. If you buy the whole assembly its a matter of 16 bolts (8 per side...triple square or cheesehead).
#7
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Any good sources for rebuilt axles? I'd like to pick one up for use as a spare for my race car - every place I've checked has a core charge which doesn't help since I need it as a spare. The rebuilt + the core charge make it cost about the same as a brand new one.
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#8
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I don't know specifically about rebuilt axles for these cars, but I stay away from them on my FWD Volkswagens. I've heard bad things about rebuilt CVs. I think they re-grind the grooves and the grinding can sometimes protrude through the surface hardness. For my Passat, I went with rebuilts from raxles.com because they put on all new OEM joints for less money than I could do it myself with new parts. They are a first class outfit. It might be worthwhile to see what they offer for 951s.
I repacked the ones on my 951 while I had the axles off during my recent clutch job. I completely disassembled the joints, cleaned off all the old grease and repacked them. This gives a first-hand look at the condition of the joints. Just be sure to mark the components so you can re-assemble it just as it was. Most people say you don't need to worry about getting the ***** back in the same positions, but I did anyway. Mine had some wear on the driven side of the grooves so I swapped axles when I put it back together.
I repacked the ones on my 951 while I had the axles off during my recent clutch job. I completely disassembled the joints, cleaned off all the old grease and repacked them. This gives a first-hand look at the condition of the joints. Just be sure to mark the components so you can re-assemble it just as it was. Most people say you don't need to worry about getting the ***** back in the same positions, but I did anyway. Mine had some wear on the driven side of the grooves so I swapped axles when I put it back together.