95Juan

So, my mechanic just told me that my voltage regulator is on the way out, and my alternator is aging (which it seemed like anyway). 120k miles, and i've got 2 500-watt 12" subs and a 760-watt bridgeable amp. of course- this is the problem. i have 2 options, disconnect the sub/amp, and hope that the problem evens itself out.

OR (the fun way)

take it upon myself to replace my alternator.

my mechanic quoted me about 300 to replace the voltage regulator, and 500 for the alternator. he usually doesnt BS me, and the only reason it's in the shop anyway is because i needed a t-belt retension and i dont have all those nice shiny tools to do that.

Now. is there any disadvantage to using the "Autozone Delco" regulator/alternator or should i just get the Bosch. i've used the Delco alternators on previous cars (eclipse, gsx, camry, etc) and they seem to work, but i'm guessing it's since that was probably OE (that, or denso) for them. autozone has Duralast alternators for 140 with a 110 core charge. which comes out to the same as buying rebuilt from paragon. it's a 115-amp alternator, which i assume is the same as OEM.

should i bite the bullet and do the whole alternator? or just the voltage regulator?

spray some ground cleaner on it and hope it gets better?


also- anyone have a walkthrough for replacing the alternator that's better than the haynes-

1. disconnect negative battery cable
2. remove alternator
3. installation is reverse of removal.

???

ehall

I'm of the opinion that an alternatoer is an alternater. Get the bosch VR from Pelican or Paragon. It's about 20.00 shipped.
The job is tedious but easy. Clarks-garage has a full write up. Use the haynes for pics if you really must. I'll answer whatever questions you have as you go. Basically, pull the Ic pipe, the AFM, assorted hoses that could be in the way, and then pry out the altr. It will have an airflow duct on it. I would make sure it's in good shape if I were you. It cools the alt. The VR is on the back of the alt, so there aren't really any short cuts to doing this job. It takes a while, but I wouldn't pay someone else. It's not a hard job. E

ehall

BTW disco the battery first!

95Juan

it was my understanding that it could be changed in like, half an hour on a non-turbo car (the VR, not the alternator)? do i actually have to pull the alternator to get to the VR? if not, then i'm doing it tonight. if so, the car's going to parked or in pieces until the weekend.

Edit- every time i see your avatar, i actually think HST is typing. spoooooky.

ehall

on a turbo, you have to turn tha alternaer to get to the VR. If you're a decent mech, I say 2 hours, being very careful, and on the first try. Go check out Clarks write up. There were some steps I thought could have been skipped, like emptying the coolant.

ehall

the vr itself takes five minutes. It's getting there that's a PITA.

95Juan

i guess it's one of those "welcome to porsche" things.


Edit- would getting there be any easier from under the car? i've got a couple of big truck ramps........

ehall

yep. FWIW it isn't hard, it just takes time to remove and replace hoses, the alt etc. You may need a small prybar to reinstall the alt. Oh and it's freeking HEAVY!

I wish someone made one that was lighter and fit the same spot.

ehall

Edit- would getting there be any easier from under the car? i've got a couple of big truck ramps........


Not if you have A/C. If you do, it's mounted on top.

95Juan

i meant the VR. i know it's mounted on the top. but shouldnt i be able to get a hand in there to get it out? hahahahahaha. i did an A/C delete on my '84 last year, and i thought to myself "oh boy! an hour TOPS!" now i'm just getting disillusioned. i guess sending new mustangs back to the dealer crying comes with a price....

95Juan

i love how whenever i have a question, it always ends up being a conversation between just you and me, ehall. i guess no one else wastes time on my n00b Q's..

which is why i'm constantly hijacking threads.

ehall

you'll have to take off the fasteners holding the Vr on the alt. I don't think you can get there. Maybe, but only if it was lowered to the old a/c position. At that point I have no idea, as mine is in stock loc.

SamGrant951

My car died while driving - charged battery - drove home. Took out alt and went to Autozone and had the alt. tested before installing the new voltage regulator. It passed. Then installed new volt. regulator - It passed. Reinstalled alt in car and its been fine since. - the regulator brushes on my original were a joke - so worn down. I wouldnt replace the alt. until trying the VR.

95Juan

dont you just love autozone? hahahaha. that's happened to me. once on the old Poopra. i'm doing the VR tonight.

so.....just to conclude- remove all hoses blocking it. can i change the VR while it's still attatched? i'm SO bad at tensioning accessory belts. i either do them too little or too much.

streckfu's

If you have the hose and cone attached to the back of the alternator, it is easier to go from the top. It's also much easier if you have a MAF. It's best to put the front of the car up so you can llosen the AC compressor and fet the belt off.

There are two bolts holding the alternator to the engine. a sort one underneath and long one on top.


After doing this 3 or 4 times, I can pull the alternator in about 20 minutes.