While you are researching things check out Evans Waterless coolant. I am currently testing it out – there seem to be a lot of benefits to it.
http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

The only down side is that it is extremely slippery! A small leak created a lot of oversteer while out on the track at the Glen…

Chris White

 

So Chris, thus far, how has it been in controlling or reducing temps? Has it been noticeable? Other than slippery, what do you think so far?
It's expensive, but looks really interesting. E

 

In my past experience with a stock set up I never had a heat problem – usually the temp kept to the first white line on the track.

I went to the Evans coolant for added corrosion protection (running iron sleeves in the Alusil block) and to combat the nucleate boiling. All coolants will get small bubbles – its the ability of the medium to reabsorb the bubbles that helps.

Typically you will see slightly higher temps with the Evans coolant but the temps will stabilize and remain at that level. The other big plus is that the pressure in the coolant system remains vary low (2 to 4 lbs). A lot less stress on the hoses and gaskets.
Another plus is that the non pressurized boiling point is 375 F – so that will not be any localized boiling at hot spots – like the turbo center section. Some folks removed the water cooling from track car turbos because of the fear of flash boiling as the turbo…not a problem with the Evans stuff.

In reality my comparison is not fair – I added a Griffin aluminum radiator at the same time as a new engine and the Evans coolant. The temps were very stable on the track during the initial outing – I will have more data after the mid November VIR 3 day event…

Chris White

 

"In reality my comparison is not fair – I added a Griffin aluminum radiator at the same time as a new engine and the Evans coolant."

That's why I'm so intersted. I've read virtually their entire site since you posted. I'm geting ready to install my Griffin rad, so now would be the time If I wanted to switch.
Two questions.
Are you running the stock radiator cap?
Are you concerned about flammability?
If so, where and why?

TIA

 

The small leak I had at the track was a hose leaking coolant that ran down the turbo hot side…so I guess that I am not worried about the flammability!
I use the stock cap – you can run without a cap if you want! There is no harm in using a stock type cap, the only time your coolant system will pressurize is when the head gasket lets go…

If you are putting in a new radiator now would be the prefect time to switch. Its not really that expensive – 3 gals will just about fill the system – add it will (in theory) last forever. The only thing I have had to change is making a point to drain the radiator to a clean container when pulling the head - then reuse the coolant. With the standard coolant I would just drain and replace with new.

I friend of mines dog was poisoned by antifreeze a bunch of years ago…not a nice way to go. So the non toxic aspect sounds good to me too!

Chris

 

Thanks for all the info. I'm going to go ahead and do this. Florida isn't bad now, but it was a really hot Summer. I'm looking to do absolutely anything that helps cool the engine. and i agree whole haertedly about the poison issue. I love animals a lot more than I like people. E

ps. You'll be the first to know when the head gasket goes anyway. lol

 

Got a pic of such a manouver?

Also, wouldn't bypassing the heater (connecting a straight pipe from the metal pipe on the rear of the cylinder head, back into the metal tube on the camshaft housing) gain anything ta all? (even minor)

 

Think of the free weight savings...

 

If your heat control is set on cold then you have shut that valve anyway - no coolant is circulating through the pipe.

 

Chris,
Right, but the coolant will be 'stuck' there, not moving. As opposed to having flow from the cylinder head back to the waterpump....

 

When was this last design iteration? I am wondering what version of the head gasket I have that I bought in the spring.

 

I don't really know - I just compared several that I have around the shop – they were all slightly different. The latest ones have cooling passages in the rear only.

Chris

 

I don't really know - I just compared several that I have around the shop – they were all slightly different. The latest ones have cooling passages in the rear only.

Chris

 

Be careful here when comparing. There are several versions, but not updates. The Gaskets made for engines for street and DE type use, should be with water passages like the stock fiber types. There are Gaskets made for outright racing engines with the Holes in the back only. It is not recommended that these be used for street and or DE type engines. Different Gaskets are made for the 2 types of blocks as well. I know that some of larger bore Gaskets have different holes and some of the versions have the holes in the same place, just different sizes. Also remember, some versions of the Gaskets come in HP and standard configuration as well. Turbo and High performance engines should always use HP versions.

There has been a lot of talk about these Gaskets. They have been praised and trashed. In the cases where they have not worked successfully, it can be determined very easily why they did not. In all cases, the cause is either poor machining or poor assembly. Care must be taken when installing and care must be taken with the machining. The stock Gaskets are more forgiving when it comes to the machining issues and as they have no inner membranes, never can be overlapped. However, they cannot offer the seal or strength the MLS Gasket does. Another point in their favor is the non requirement to retorque after some break in peroid.

As for the Head issue, I have had one of mine cut in pieces to expose the water passages. There appears to be higher spot around number 4 cylinder, but the roof line is the same all the way to the front of the Head. All cylinders have the same roof line. There is no way any air can get trapped there, any more than any of the cylinders, everything is connected and in fact the same passage. If the system is filled properely and the Header tank above the head, the air will find its way to the highest point. The air cannot get trapped at the rear. As the roof line continues all the way to the front, the air will be pushed to the front and out to the header tank. The reason for adding a restrictor is to ensure the water has some backpressure, making it fill the whole head. I'm sure if there was an issue here, we would have seen it in blown Gaskets due to overheating.

 

I may have missed engine building 101 but I did attend my physics classes.
Adding a restrictor only does two things.
-It increases the boiling point of the cooling water in the head.
-It lowers the pump flow.
I does not change the flow distribution in the head in any noticable way. The increased boiling point may help to stop boiling at hot spots but that effect will probably be cancelled out by the decrease in flow. You will get the same effect on the boiling point by increasing system pressure with a higher rated cap and that will cause no decrease in pump flow.

Tomas