(wanting)tips for front end reseal ... new posts as progress made
#31
Did you do that off the top of your head?
Originally Posted by cruise98
The oil thermostat is an updated part # and lowers the opening temp to 95C IIRC. THe stock is 103C IIRC. This is probably a dealer only item. I bought one from Kenn at Hennessy Porsche in Atlanta. Be sure to get the large seal ring #900.123.136.30.
The oil cooler seals are probably worth doing just for the piece of mind if nothing else. For the record, the turbo does NOT have a heat exchanger (oil cooler) in the oil filter housing like the N/A's. In it's place there is a short tube that has two o-rings on it that need to be changed to prevent the oil/water mikshake, and potential rod bearing + damage. The turbos have external oil coolers. The kit will have several parts you do not need. For the turbo, you will need the following:
1 ea. gasket 944.107.147.03 for housing
2 ea. o-rings 999.707.043.40 for connecting tube
1 ea. connecting tube 951.107.152.03 (replace if damaged)
2 ea. seal rings 900.123.011.30 for oil line adaptors (these leak if disturbed at all!)
1 ea seal N 043.815.03 for OPRV
1 ea o-ring 944.107.935.01 for OPRV
9262/1 alignment tool for late model blocks
This may not be the list you are referring to, but here it is my list anyway.
Front Engine re-seal parts list for 1987 Porsche 944/951 and later 8 valve 2.5 liter engines
Camshaft
1 each O-ring 999.701.602.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.045.00
1 each O-ring (flat mylar washer) 944.105.321.00
1 each Spacer 928.105.139.04
1 each Seal 999.113.349.40
1 each Bolt (optional) 999.510.022.08
1 each Toothed roller 944.105.631.04
1 each Smooth roller 944.105.241.03
1 each Rubber seal 928.105.184.00
Crankshaft
1 each Seal 999.113.331.50
1 each Sleeve (oil pump drive) 944.107.161.02
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.036.00
Balance shafts
1 each Seal (upper, cw rotation) 999.113.282.40
1 each Seal (lower, ccw rotation) 999.113.281.40
2 each Spacer 928.105.139.02
2 each O-ring (mylar, same as cam) 944.105.321.00
2 each O-ring 999.701.652.40
2 each Woodruff key (optional) N 012.708.2
1 each Tensioner roller 944.102.025.07
1 each Smooth roller 944.102.277.06
2 each Locknuts N .022.149.0
2 each Washers N .011.527.12
Water pump
1 each Water Pump 951.106.021.10
1 each Water Pump Gasket 944.106.132.04
1 each Block off plate (NA only) 944.106.313.00
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
2 each Bolt 6 x 20mm (optional) N .014.704.1
2 each Washer (optional) N .011.524.7
1 each Thermostat 944.106.019.00
1 each Support Washer 900.234.160.00
1 each T-stat O-ring 944.106.929.08 or
944.106.929.05 depends on water pump
The two items below are only required if the car has never been updated or the parts are damaged or missing
1 each Guard rail (for updated pump) 944.105.210.01
2 each Lock nuts (for guard rail) 999.084.092.02
Notes:
1. Spacers and oil pump sleeve should be replaced if they have wear grooves, or burrs which could damage a new seal. Use some fine
grade scotch brite to clean up the old ones, but replace them if in doubt.
2. The front crank seal is prone to leaking if not installed perfectly. I use an old crank gear and oil pump sleeve that I honed the center bore of to make it easy to slide on and off the crank, and use these two as spacers with the crank bolt to press the seal in squarely until flush with the oil pump face.
3. The balance shaft front housings must be removed to properly reseal them.
4. Oil seals and o–rings must be thoroughly lubricated before installation.
Have fun!
The oil cooler seals are probably worth doing just for the piece of mind if nothing else. For the record, the turbo does NOT have a heat exchanger (oil cooler) in the oil filter housing like the N/A's. In it's place there is a short tube that has two o-rings on it that need to be changed to prevent the oil/water mikshake, and potential rod bearing + damage. The turbos have external oil coolers. The kit will have several parts you do not need. For the turbo, you will need the following:
1 ea. gasket 944.107.147.03 for housing
2 ea. o-rings 999.707.043.40 for connecting tube
1 ea. connecting tube 951.107.152.03 (replace if damaged)
2 ea. seal rings 900.123.011.30 for oil line adaptors (these leak if disturbed at all!)
1 ea seal N 043.815.03 for OPRV
1 ea o-ring 944.107.935.01 for OPRV
9262/1 alignment tool for late model blocks
This may not be the list you are referring to, but here it is my list anyway.
Front Engine re-seal parts list for 1987 Porsche 944/951 and later 8 valve 2.5 liter engines
Camshaft
1 each O-ring 999.701.602.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.045.00
1 each O-ring (flat mylar washer) 944.105.321.00
1 each Spacer 928.105.139.04
1 each Seal 999.113.349.40
1 each Bolt (optional) 999.510.022.08
1 each Toothed roller 944.105.631.04
1 each Smooth roller 944.105.241.03
1 each Rubber seal 928.105.184.00
Crankshaft
1 each Seal 999.113.331.50
1 each Sleeve (oil pump drive) 944.107.161.02
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.036.00
Balance shafts
1 each Seal (upper, cw rotation) 999.113.282.40
1 each Seal (lower, ccw rotation) 999.113.281.40
2 each Spacer 928.105.139.02
2 each O-ring (mylar, same as cam) 944.105.321.00
2 each O-ring 999.701.652.40
2 each Woodruff key (optional) N 012.708.2
1 each Tensioner roller 944.102.025.07
1 each Smooth roller 944.102.277.06
2 each Locknuts N .022.149.0
2 each Washers N .011.527.12
Water pump
1 each Water Pump 951.106.021.10
1 each Water Pump Gasket 944.106.132.04
1 each Block off plate (NA only) 944.106.313.00
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
2 each Bolt 6 x 20mm (optional) N .014.704.1
2 each Washer (optional) N .011.524.7
1 each Thermostat 944.106.019.00
1 each Support Washer 900.234.160.00
1 each T-stat O-ring 944.106.929.08 or
944.106.929.05 depends on water pump
The two items below are only required if the car has never been updated or the parts are damaged or missing
1 each Guard rail (for updated pump) 944.105.210.01
2 each Lock nuts (for guard rail) 999.084.092.02
Notes:
1. Spacers and oil pump sleeve should be replaced if they have wear grooves, or burrs which could damage a new seal. Use some fine
grade scotch brite to clean up the old ones, but replace them if in doubt.
2. The front crank seal is prone to leaking if not installed perfectly. I use an old crank gear and oil pump sleeve that I honed the center bore of to make it easy to slide on and off the crank, and use these two as spacers with the crank bolt to press the seal in squarely until flush with the oil pump face.
3. The balance shaft front housings must be removed to properly reseal them.
4. Oil seals and o–rings must be thoroughly lubricated before installation.
Have fun!
#32
No, but i have responded to the question umpteen times! The parts list is something I created back when Clark first started his web site and it has evolved ever since. It is a word file, so copy and paste.
When does surgery start on yours? I have a suggestion for you. Rent a tow dolly, remove the front bumper cover, drag the car to my garage (heated!) on a Saturday morning, we can take it out and put the front end back in it and you can drag it home that evening and put it in your garage. We might even have time to start dissecting the engine and see what all is broken.
When does surgery start on yours? I have a suggestion for you. Rent a tow dolly, remove the front bumper cover, drag the car to my garage (heated!) on a Saturday morning, we can take it out and put the front end back in it and you can drag it home that evening and put it in your garage. We might even have time to start dissecting the engine and see what all is broken.
#33
great tip cruise: "2. The front crank seal is prone to leaking if not installed perfectly. I use an old crank gear and oil pump sleeve that I honed the center bore of to make it easy to slide on and off the crank, and use these two as spacers with the crank bolt to press the seal in squarely until flush with the oil pump face."
Too bad I just spent an hour gathering all of the part numbers you just posted HA!
Too bad I just spent an hour gathering all of the part numbers you just posted HA!
#34
I shopped around when I did my front seal/belt/WP redue back in the spring and I think I bought stuff from everyone. Zim's has the front seal kit WITH the races (spacers) for about $80. They are about $25 if you buy them seperately. The oil pump drive does not come in that.
#36
The shop has doors now. I just need to put a driveway in now. That might be a while though. I was hoping to tear it apart sometime in Dec, but I might not make it.
I like your idea. Did you have a Saturday in mind? I may not have a free Sat till 07. Let me check.
I like your idea. Did you have a Saturday in mind? I may not have a free Sat till 07. Let me check.
Originally Posted by cruise98
No, but i have responded to the question umpteen times! The parts list is something I created back when Clark first started his web site and it has evolved ever since. It is a word file, so copy and paste.
When does surgery start on yours? I have a suggestion for you. Rent a tow dolly, remove the front bumper cover, drag the car to my garage (heated!) on a Saturday morning, we can take it out and put the front end back in it and you can drag it home that evening and put it in your garage. We might even have time to start dissecting the engine and see what all is broken.
When does surgery start on yours? I have a suggestion for you. Rent a tow dolly, remove the front bumper cover, drag the car to my garage (heated!) on a Saturday morning, we can take it out and put the front end back in it and you can drag it home that evening and put it in your garage. We might even have time to start dissecting the engine and see what all is broken.