tonyzp007

then run very close times the rest of the night each under 13.9 second quartermiles. but today when i start my car it puffs out white smoke and it smells like burning antifreeze .i m pretty sure i blew my headgasket

so now that im at this level ,how hard is it to change the headgasket ?

dime1622

it's not. it's just time consuming and can be a pain in the ***. you WILL run into problems along the way. ive done it twice since i bought the car two years ago.

my hint: keep the headers bolted to the head and unbolt them from the crossover pipe below. then pull the headers and head at the same time. i, and many other people here, can answer just about any question you throw at us regarding removing the head since so many people here have done it.

you can find instructions at www.clarks-garage.com under C -> Cylinder Head Removal

btw, any mods to your car? running 13.6 is pretty good, almost unattanable stock - what was your 60'?

dime1622

ah, i forgot, i would replace the headgasket with a wide-fire version. a bit more durable. i got mine from www.lindsey-racing.com, but you can find it at www.paragon-products.com or several other places.

tonyzp007

my car has the autothority chips ,wire-mess intake and staight pipe from cat -back

r/t... .257
60'... 2.195
330.. 5.939
1/8... 8.927
mph...83.20
1000..11.463
1/4... 13.610
mph...105.10

it was a blast i ran a total of six runs this was the fastest
have hardley no traction in first and second above 5000 rpms
i realy love this car no i have to go do some track racing after i change the head!
i beat some realy fast cars!

couple quick questions about changing the head
1)should i get the head resurfaced before putting it back on
2)do i need to get new head bolts?
3)should i also change intake gasket,exhaust gasket?

streckfu's

Search the Wide-fire as there is debate about it actually being better than stock if you don't have an O-ringed head.

Changing the head gasket wasn't that hard. Dime has it right about expecting issues. plan the replace a olt of harware such as the exhaust nuts, bolts to the cross-over pipe, etc.

I bought the headgasket kit from Vertex auto (cheapest by $20) which includes the headgasket and all other gaskets above it. Everything else I bought from paragon.

Follow the instruction on Clark's Garage and take notes and pictures as you go. Be sure to keep track of all hardware you plan to reuse and where it goes.

Now is a GREAT time to remove the venturi, CV, add a boost controller, etc.

I highly recommend having your head refreshed while it's off. I changed the valve springs, guide seals, etc while it was off. Scott Gomes at www.area951.com did the work.

951_RS

man thats a nice 60 ft time compared to mine. My first time at the track i got a 2.7 60'... Let's just say my crossover pipe is leaking and I either bog down hard or spin em through 2nd =[ Gonna take some practice...

Trucho-951

I had authority chips and was only able to run about 3 months worth of D.E.'s, then, I blew the headgasket. From surverying other 951 owners at the track, I learned the importance to having adequate A/F ratio for high RPM driving. Found out that Authority chips go lean A/F and lean is bad.

I was told to fix my lean condition first, or I would continue to blow headgaskets, or worse. After much research, I ended up replacing my chips with Vitesse Racing chips, replaced the head gasket with widefire ring, and the head studs with RACEWARE high stregth head steel studs (because it is extremely important to have the right hadrware that can keep the gasket snugly in place).

Most racers at the track told me that it is best to think of the headgasket similar to a fuse in an electrical circuit. If it blows, don't blame the fuse, find the problem first, or the fuse will keep on blowing...

I am super happy with the Vittesse chips, more torque, and much earlier in the powerband too.

dime1622

actually, autothority chips are notorious for running rich. any cars behind me when i shift 1st to 2nd driving hard can attest by the black smoke they are eating.

Tom M'Guinn

1. Yes, have it checked for flatness (along with the deck) and skim off a thousandths or two if not perfectly flat. Might as well have the valves refreshed too unless very recently done.

2. This car uses studs and nuts. The factory manual says to replace the studs. Doing so is a pain, thanks to lots of red lock-tite. Many people have re-used the studs without problems. If you change them, get the snap-on stud remover and a big T-bar breaker.

3. Yes, get the widefire head gasket set -- it will have virtually all the gaskets you'll need.

streckfu's

Only in the mid-range. They lean out badly up top. Ask me how I know.

streckfu's

Here's a thread I started when looking into the widefire: LINK

Also, read this post by Danno: Link

jimbo1111

That's pretty fast. I recently spoke with someone who ran a k27/6 at 11.9 124 mph in his old 944t. He is into bmw's these days.

TRWright

Yah, IDK about that guy. . .

toddk911

What kind of boost are you running?? If still stock then the Auto chips would not be the culprit.

tonyzp007

i don't realy know ,i just know under peak acceleration the cars boost needle is exactly at the 2 mark ,i dont have a psi boost guage yet nor a boost controller . after i change the head gasket i will install a boost controller and guage