david fracolli

I started to pull the engine aprt to replace the Turbo and have the head rebuilt and things are not looking good. To start off the J boot fell apart in my hands so I will be needed a new one. Half of the Vacuum tees fell aprt when I was pulling the intake manifold apart so I will be replacing all of them
That's the good new. The intake manifold and turbo are full of oil. Number 1 and 2 intake tracks on the manifold or just caked with burnt oil. Also cylinder 1 and 2 intake ports or full of oil. I also found that the water in the head is full of oil and to top it all off it appears that the intake valve on cylinder 1 is burned.
Why do I get the fealing this is going to get expensive.

Peckster

You're lucky you discovered all this before it got really bad. How can you tell the valve is burnt?

So far it doesn't sound like anything really expensive, the bore and crank are usually more costly problems.

david fracolli

Actually I think it is just burnt oil on the valve. Will know for sure when I get the head off tomorrow.

Ian Carr

Do your self a favor and replace all the vacuum lines with silicone line and you will never have to worry about braking plastic again. The j-boot is a pain, mine did the same and literally fell apart when pulled it off. A little oil is not a bad thing and your valve probably just has a lot of carbon built up and oil.

About the mix of oil and water, drain the oil and see if there is water in it. Also do your self a favor and flush the cooling system and put new coolant and water in and your car will stay nice and cool .

But if you do have a mixture it could be a couple things but stay concentrated on taking apart the head and turbo

Alpine951

David,


I don't know what you did about a new turbo but if you are going with a K27/6 then you won't be able to use the complete j boot anyways. When I put in the k27/6 that you sold me the j boot would not fit. I got an adaptor from someone that supposedly you cut part of the smaller end off of the jboot because tyhe k27 compressor inlet is bigger than the k26, and insert the adaptor into the jboot and use a rubber/silicone connector in between. It would work. Not enough room. I went down this custom cycle shop called Stone Cycle with some 3" exhaust tubing and had him make me part of the jboot that has the ports in it and then hacked off the jboot at the ports and stuffed the pipe in to the jboot. Works great. Just giving you a heads up.


John

david fracolli

Actually I bought a SFR stage 1 turbo from powerwerks. At $725.00 could not pass it up. I am going to finnish pulling the head tomorrow and then take it to Chris White since he is only an hour and half away.
I am definately going to replace all of the vacuum lines and fittings. I was also thinking of replacing the line to the KLR. Is is supposed to be so stiff?
Just out of curiosity how smooth/easy should the turbo spin?

JDeitz951

Every 951 with over 100K will have baked each and every plastic or rubber part in the area under the intake manifold. Check the condiiton of the flywheel sensor connectors. Mine were brittle like hard candy.

david fracolli

I noticed the insulation on the reference and speed sensor wires were all cracked. Will have to take a closer look tomorrow.

jerome951

Yes, it's made of a fairly hard plastic that even when new if pretty stiff. I guess to keep it from getting pinched through the firewall and giving the KLR an incorrect boost signal.

I replaced mine last winter and it is easy except for fishing the line through the firewall and grabbing it from the other side. The tubing near where it connects to the intake on my old line was hard as a rock. I cut off the hard piece and tried to reconnect the tubing to the fitting. No dice. Won't stretch that much. The new line comes w/ the fitting installed.

Chris White

Just a heads up – many of the silicone vacuum lines do not work well for our cars, as the heat they get quite pliable and will expand under pressure and slip off fittings. The also can suffer from ‘kinking’ when warm. The factory style hard line is the best stuff for a boost/vacuum environment. At 15 to 20 years old it is time to replace it! NAPA can get an exact replacement or a slightly larger version.

Chris White

david fracolli

Chris, thanks for the heads up. I have a bunch of the original hard line and rubber t fittings when I did my N/A a couple of years ago.