Cross member - remove
08-06-2005, 03:58 PM
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oslo, Norway
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Cross member - remove
I need to remove the cross member to install heli coil for the stearing rack bolts! Any hint or tips on this? Or is it a pretty straight forward thing to do? Does look pretty easy indeed.
1. hanging the engine with some wire from the roof.
2. unbolt the 8(?) bolts that attach the crossmember to the motormounts and chassi.
That should be about it?
1. hanging the engine with some wire from the roof.
2. unbolt the 8(?) bolts that attach the crossmember to the motormounts and chassi.
That should be about it?
08-06-2005, 04:11 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Pretty much just remove stuff until it can be worked out. And make sure your "wire" is strong enough. 
Mark the alignment of the control arms to the chassis w some paint to save the alignment. I have a feeling you are going to see some not so obvious things need to be removed, but nothing difficult.
Mark the alignment of the control arms to the chassis w some paint to save the alignment. I have a feeling you are going to see some not so obvious things need to be removed, but nothing difficult.
08-06-2005, 05:50 PM
#3
1. hanging the engine with some wire from the roof.
I'll be right over to help...............wait a second.............."what's that honey?"....................sorry, my wife's calling me....................
I'll be right over to help...............wait a second.............."what's that honey?"....................sorry, my wife's calling me....................
08-07-2005, 08:32 AM
#5
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
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You could probably heli-coil those holes with the crossmember in place if you don't mind spending about $30-50 US (I assume you probably have a better idea of what the exchange rate is than I do for dollars to Krone I believe it is in Norway)
If you're willing to spend the money for a right angle adapter or cheap right angle headed electric drill, you shouldn't have to do anything other than pull the steering rack off/out of the way a bit. It makes it a 2-3 hour job vs a much longer one to pull the cross member. There's no reason I can think of that would require pulling the crossmember aside from tight clearances. It might even cost less than $30-50 to get an adapter, I can get one here in the US for about $20 if I don't mind a low quality adapter.
If you can't get one, then yes, you'll need to suspend the front lifting point on the engine from something such as a beam with chain or cable that can hold a load of about 200 to 300 kg. With the engine secured you'll need to remove the two upper bolts for the engine mount on each side, the two bolts that hold the rear caster block onto the frame so that the A-arm can come down with the crossmember, and then the two 12mm bolts on each side of the crossmember.
This assumes that you have the front sway bar removed, the power steering rack disconnected from the upper splined shaft that goes to the steering wheel, and anything else that's going to be in the way removed.
If it were me, I'd just try to do it with the crossmember in place or at worst spend the money on the 90 degree adapter for an electric drill instead if at all possible.
To make this work, you may need to get creative with the tap since a standard tap handle won't work in tight quarters. Some options are to use a 12 point socket that fits the square section of the tap and then just use a suitable extension and ratchet or if you have one, a tap wrench with the sliding handle and a drill chuck style end may work as well.
If you're willing to spend the money for a right angle adapter or cheap right angle headed electric drill, you shouldn't have to do anything other than pull the steering rack off/out of the way a bit. It makes it a 2-3 hour job vs a much longer one to pull the cross member. There's no reason I can think of that would require pulling the crossmember aside from tight clearances. It might even cost less than $30-50 to get an adapter, I can get one here in the US for about $20 if I don't mind a low quality adapter.
If you can't get one, then yes, you'll need to suspend the front lifting point on the engine from something such as a beam with chain or cable that can hold a load of about 200 to 300 kg. With the engine secured you'll need to remove the two upper bolts for the engine mount on each side, the two bolts that hold the rear caster block onto the frame so that the A-arm can come down with the crossmember, and then the two 12mm bolts on each side of the crossmember.
This assumes that you have the front sway bar removed, the power steering rack disconnected from the upper splined shaft that goes to the steering wheel, and anything else that's going to be in the way removed.
If it were me, I'd just try to do it with the crossmember in place or at worst spend the money on the 90 degree adapter for an electric drill instead if at all possible.
To make this work, you may need to get creative with the tap since a standard tap handle won't work in tight quarters. Some options are to use a 12 point socket that fits the square section of the tap and then just use a suitable extension and ratchet or if you have one, a tap wrench with the sliding handle and a drill chuck style end may work as well.
