Anybody interested in my 87 951 ??
#1
Anybody interested in my 87 951 ??
I am thinking about selling it as i have too many and another 928 on the way.
Asking price is $8500 firm, PM me if you are interested.
Pictures
http://www.pbase.com/tammons/951
Its gun metal gray, Tan interior, no rips in seats, the dash is cracked on top but not too bad. 107K miles. 40 K on last clutch job. I have something like 14G in receipts from around 2002. This car sat from 2002-2005 or until about 6 months ago when I bought it, so all that work is practically new. I have almost all the receipts and I am the 3rd owner I think.
It has S4 brakes and coil overs on the front. I am not sure if this was a factory option.
What is missing or what it need is below.
Missing front splitter.
AC is not working right now, but I think it has a bad shrader valve. It was working when I bought it, but the compressor clutch coil burned out. Just replaced the clutch coil with a new part, and charge it but it leaked out. It was holding some pressure before I charged it.
I also replaced the TPS with a new unit.
The high speed fan seems to come on at the wrong times and is a bit erratic, but I have a new thermo switch. Runs cool on the highway, but heats up quick at idle in the heat. I think it is the thermostat, and I have a new one. It also cools off on just a few seconds when driving.
Uses some oil, but the plugs are clean. I am 100% certain this is oil seepage past the turbo seals. Also after driving it hard and letting it sit for half an hour or so, I get smoke on startup, but this does not happen when it sits overnight, like a leaking valve seal.
Runs very strong, but does break up a little under high boost, high rpm. Probably the wires, cap and rotor.
One of the crank position sensor connector boots is broken, but it runs fine.
Also the front end was repainted for some reason. There are a few imperfections on the hood and the rest of the paint on the rear is just okay. Its not perfect but it looks good with a good wax job.
The sunroof does not leak.
Cruise control does not work.
The CV joints click from time to time, but it always goes away quick so i dont worry about it. Sometimes it goes for a week or two, clicks, then goes away in about a mile or so. Probably need to be repacked.
Other than the above this car is solid and straight and runs very strong. All of those problems should be an easy fix.
Below is a list of work that was done to it around 2002-2005 that i have receipts for.
Vehicle Description
1987 Porsche 944 Turbo 5 speed, Limited Slip Transmission,Car has power windows, power mirrors power door locks, cruise control, Electric seat adjustments, power moon roof and so on.
Interior: Cream color Leather Seating, both front seats redone in leather, Back seats are in great condition, little if any flaws. Has Porsche floormats in the front.
Exterior: Charcoal in color, paint is decent.
Mechanical: Over $14,000 worth of work went into this car in mostly 2002, brand new parts. Listed below. Since all this work, it has not been driven more than 4000 miles. The following were replaced and i have receipts for this stuff:
6/2/2002:
Timing Belt
Balance Belt
Cambelt roller
Cambelt tension roller
Aux shaft tensioner
Aux shaft roller
Brake pads
Rear rotors
Motor mounts
Strut assemblies
Rear wheel bearings
Roof gears (for power moon roof)
Power steering rack
Rear shocks
Inner/outer wheel bearings
Front brake pads
Swaybar bushing
Rubber bushing
Foglight assembly
Front rotors
Spark Plugs
Reardeck shocks
Sunroof relay
Rear brake pad sensor
Alternator belt
Oil pressure sending unit
Alternator
Intake boot
Total w/ labor: $3841.11
6-10-02
Glass replacement, windsheild
$1670.88
10-16-02
Adjust Cambelt
Replace heater valve
R&R high pressure line
Order rear hatch replace
Total w/ labor: $1073.67
12/23/02
Replace one pick up sensor
Check engine
Replace airbag clock sprint
R&R turbo water pump
Check power steering
Fuel injection service & intake clean
Total w/ labor: $982.65
01/18/05
Replace fuelpump, filter, Air time valve, oil feed to turbo O ring, replaced all vacuum lines under the intake, new intake gasket,
Total w/ Labor: $ 644.64
01/25/05
Knock censor, tune exhaust,
Stage 2 chip set DME and KLR, (I have never verified this)
custom K&N airfilter set up, two new rear tires,
Total w/ Labor $ 791.60
02/08/05
Repaint front nose clip 2 stage orig paint,
Total w/Labor $ 700.00
03/03/05
Recover both front seats with leather, (I think they were dyed, but they are decent. The drivers seat center section looks vinyl to me)
Total w/Labor $ 545.-
02/08/05
Repaint front nose clip,
Total $ 700.-
Asking price is $8500 firm, PM me if you are interested.
Pictures
http://www.pbase.com/tammons/951
Its gun metal gray, Tan interior, no rips in seats, the dash is cracked on top but not too bad. 107K miles. 40 K on last clutch job. I have something like 14G in receipts from around 2002. This car sat from 2002-2005 or until about 6 months ago when I bought it, so all that work is practically new. I have almost all the receipts and I am the 3rd owner I think.
It has S4 brakes and coil overs on the front. I am not sure if this was a factory option.
What is missing or what it need is below.
Missing front splitter.
AC is not working right now, but I think it has a bad shrader valve. It was working when I bought it, but the compressor clutch coil burned out. Just replaced the clutch coil with a new part, and charge it but it leaked out. It was holding some pressure before I charged it.
I also replaced the TPS with a new unit.
The high speed fan seems to come on at the wrong times and is a bit erratic, but I have a new thermo switch. Runs cool on the highway, but heats up quick at idle in the heat. I think it is the thermostat, and I have a new one. It also cools off on just a few seconds when driving.
Uses some oil, but the plugs are clean. I am 100% certain this is oil seepage past the turbo seals. Also after driving it hard and letting it sit for half an hour or so, I get smoke on startup, but this does not happen when it sits overnight, like a leaking valve seal.
Runs very strong, but does break up a little under high boost, high rpm. Probably the wires, cap and rotor.
One of the crank position sensor connector boots is broken, but it runs fine.
Also the front end was repainted for some reason. There are a few imperfections on the hood and the rest of the paint on the rear is just okay. Its not perfect but it looks good with a good wax job.
The sunroof does not leak.
Cruise control does not work.
The CV joints click from time to time, but it always goes away quick so i dont worry about it. Sometimes it goes for a week or two, clicks, then goes away in about a mile or so. Probably need to be repacked.
Other than the above this car is solid and straight and runs very strong. All of those problems should be an easy fix.
Below is a list of work that was done to it around 2002-2005 that i have receipts for.
Vehicle Description
1987 Porsche 944 Turbo 5 speed, Limited Slip Transmission,Car has power windows, power mirrors power door locks, cruise control, Electric seat adjustments, power moon roof and so on.
Interior: Cream color Leather Seating, both front seats redone in leather, Back seats are in great condition, little if any flaws. Has Porsche floormats in the front.
Exterior: Charcoal in color, paint is decent.
Mechanical: Over $14,000 worth of work went into this car in mostly 2002, brand new parts. Listed below. Since all this work, it has not been driven more than 4000 miles. The following were replaced and i have receipts for this stuff:
6/2/2002:
Timing Belt
Balance Belt
Cambelt roller
Cambelt tension roller
Aux shaft tensioner
Aux shaft roller
Brake pads
Rear rotors
Motor mounts
Strut assemblies
Rear wheel bearings
Roof gears (for power moon roof)
Power steering rack
Rear shocks
Inner/outer wheel bearings
Front brake pads
Swaybar bushing
Rubber bushing
Foglight assembly
Front rotors
Spark Plugs
Reardeck shocks
Sunroof relay
Rear brake pad sensor
Alternator belt
Oil pressure sending unit
Alternator
Intake boot
Total w/ labor: $3841.11
6-10-02
Glass replacement, windsheild
$1670.88
10-16-02
Adjust Cambelt
Replace heater valve
R&R high pressure line
Order rear hatch replace
Total w/ labor: $1073.67
12/23/02
Replace one pick up sensor
Check engine
Replace airbag clock sprint
R&R turbo water pump
Check power steering
Fuel injection service & intake clean
Total w/ labor: $982.65
01/18/05
Replace fuelpump, filter, Air time valve, oil feed to turbo O ring, replaced all vacuum lines under the intake, new intake gasket,
Total w/ Labor: $ 644.64
01/25/05
Knock censor, tune exhaust,
Stage 2 chip set DME and KLR, (I have never verified this)
custom K&N airfilter set up, two new rear tires,
Total w/ Labor $ 791.60
02/08/05
Repaint front nose clip 2 stage orig paint,
Total w/Labor $ 700.00
03/03/05
Recover both front seats with leather, (I think they were dyed, but they are decent. The drivers seat center section looks vinyl to me)
Total w/Labor $ 545.-
02/08/05
Repaint front nose clip,
Total $ 700.-
#3
Probably not that much. Mind you I drive this car everyday and it is a very strong running car.
The AC could be a significant number if you send it out, but I am going to tinker with it this weekend, and change the thermostat and thermoswitch to correct the hot idling and also see if I can get the AC working. I had considered switching it back to R12, just because its so much colder, but not since I am selling it. To do that you would have to flush the system, change the seals, and change the dryer.
The AC could be a significant number if you send it out, but I am going to tinker with it this weekend, and change the thermostat and thermoswitch to correct the hot idling and also see if I can get the AC working. I had considered switching it back to R12, just because its so much colder, but not since I am selling it. To do that you would have to flush the system, change the seals, and change the dryer.
#4
Back of envelope numbers
Aero...
With no disrespect to tammons, the numbers I think cover the items he was so good to share are (estimates based on my experience only!!):
Front Splitter (batwing): $175.
A/C (if serious about fixing and upgrading to R134a): $600.
Leakdown/compression test: $150.
Cruise control brain: $50.
Good luck, check out with a PPI and otherwise sounds like a good car.
With no disrespect to tammons, the numbers I think cover the items he was so good to share are (estimates based on my experience only!!):
Front Splitter (batwing): $175.
A/C (if serious about fixing and upgrading to R134a): $600.
Leakdown/compression test: $150.
Cruise control brain: $50.
Good luck, check out with a PPI and otherwise sounds like a good car.
#5
Originally Posted by schmedes1
Aero...
With no disrespect to tammons, the numbers I think cover the items he was so good to share are (estimates based on my experience only!!):
Front Splitter (batwing): $175.
A/C (if serious about fixing and upgrading to R134a): $600.
Leakdown/compression test: $150.
Cruise control brain: $50.
Good luck, check out with a PPI and otherwise sounds like a good car.
With no disrespect to tammons, the numbers I think cover the items he was so good to share are (estimates based on my experience only!!):
Front Splitter (batwing): $175.
A/C (if serious about fixing and upgrading to R134a): $600.
Leakdown/compression test: $150.
Cruise control brain: $50.
Good luck, check out with a PPI and otherwise sounds like a good car.