Air Oil separator seals
#3
Nope, the turbo has to come out, you just dont have the clearance to get it out of the block otherwise. There was talk about cutting some heat shield to get to the bottem bolt, but I dont see how you could even get it out.
#5
Originally Posted by jimbo1111
You can can cut a hole in the shield witch covers the lower bolt on the aos. Remove the bolt with a deep socket. Than remove the intake manifold and lift it out. It's tite but can be done.
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#9
Make sure you replace the top seal of the OAS there is an O ring in the top of the cap
It is a leaker. I just removed mine and it looked like a used condom that was left out in the sun
There is a procedure to remove the cap, if not followed you will crack it ..
The O ring can be gotten from a gentleman named Scott Gomes for around 6 bucks
regards
Ed
It is a leaker. I just removed mine and it looked like a used condom that was left out in the sun
There is a procedure to remove the cap, if not followed you will crack it ..
The O ring can be gotten from a gentleman named Scott Gomes for around 6 bucks
regards
Ed
#10
Originally Posted by jlturpin
can you post a quick how to? I Would really appriciate it.
#12
Originally Posted by Crazy Eddie
Daniel
Did you use allen heads to replace the orig. hex heads ?
Thx
Ed
Did you use allen heads to replace the orig. hex heads ?
Thx
Ed
#14
Originally Posted by Crazy Eddie
Make sure you replace the top seal of the OAS there is an O ring in the top of the cap
It is a leaker. I just removed mine and it looked like a used condom that was left out in the sun
There is a procedure to remove the cap, if not followed you will crack it ..
The O ring can be gotten from a gentleman named Scott Gomes for around 6 bucks
regards
Ed
It is a leaker. I just removed mine and it looked like a used condom that was left out in the sun
There is a procedure to remove the cap, if not followed you will crack it ..
The O ring can be gotten from a gentleman named Scott Gomes for around 6 bucks
regards
Ed
I remembered that I have a spare o-ring for the top of the OAS and just measured it, The ring you want is a -151. It's not exact but chances are most o-ring suppliers will have one in stock and it's absolutely close enough to use in a static seal application like almost all of the o-rings used on our cars are.
Here's some links on o-ring sizing:
http://www.tpub.com/content/engine/1.../14105_118.htm
Tpub.com has all sorts of interesting stuff on it, definitely worth looking through if you have the time.
These other guys have a couple of great pages with all the AS568-*** o-ring sizes and their charts have metric equivalence and tolerances.
http://www.vedovell.com/o-ring.html
Here's the link directly to the first page of the dash size charts.
http://www.vedovell.com/aerosp.html
On the vedovell page for the -151 ring, they had a dyslexic moment or something and transposed the dimension of the inside diameter for that one it's 75.87 mm not the 57.87 they list.
The places where I would go with the factory o-rings are any of the green ones like the oil cooler, the crank on the oil pump splined sleeve behind the lower timing belt gear and some of the other ones on cylindrical parts like the upper cam gear cover that seals it against the cam housing. Pretty much any other one you can use a dash size and be fine. With the exception of the turbo bearing section rings, (and the green ones from the factory) they're all just Nitrile o-rings. The turbo bearing section related ones need to be Viton (these are the two that are about $10 each from official sources and are between the engine mount and turbo bearing section and then between the engine mount and the oil return line from the turbo). If I didn't always seem to have a bunch of the green ones already for the oil cooler/turbo oil-supply line I'd get a Viton ring for the upper turbo oil line as well but apparently the factory seems to think the green stuff is good enough.
There's plenty of things on our cars that cost a lot for what they are (and some rightfully so). O-rings shouldn't be on that list. Neither should the fire-rings in the stock exhaust system but I haven't had much luck cracking that nut via industrial suppliers yet.
Oh and be careful with the cap on the AOS, with all the heat cycling it's seen over the years, it can be brittle. Get 6 el-cheapo mini flat blade screwdrivers (like the ones companies always give out with their logo and phone number printed on them) and use those to carefully disengage the locking tabs. It's still a PITA to get the lid off but just take it easy and you should be fine.