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Surging issue under high boost

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Old 07-30-2005, 05:01 AM
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TRWright
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Default Surging issue under high boost

When I run anything over 15psi, the car surges like crazy. It gets worse as you increase boost. It has never been *that* bad because I usually only run like 16 psi on the street, and it doesn't get too noticeable until 16-17. If I crank it up to 23, I can actually watch the boost gauge bounce between 19-23 back and forth as the car surges. I have tried swapping out the diverter valve (thought maybe it was leaking under hard boost), but it does exactly the same thing. Also thought maybe it was the ignition, so we dumped the coil and installed the full MSD setup with controller and blaster 2 coil. Same thing. Wires are brand new, rotor is brand new, cap is pretty recent. It *almost* feels like overboost protection, but I do not have a CV so that is not possible, right? It is so annoying because the car is PERFECTLY SMOOTH as long as I keep the boost down around 15-16 psi. Any ideas on this?

Mods are Vitesse stage 2 turbo, maf, smt-6, sequential batch software, 72lb injectors, 928GTS fuel pump, tial 38mm, black **** mbc, milledge cs-19 cam.
Old 07-30-2005, 05:11 AM
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TRWright
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Help, I am leaving for the dyno at like 8:30AM. I need some suggestions before then!
Old 07-30-2005, 11:47 AM
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Mike Murcia
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I've had a light, almost "missing" sensation when I had a boost leak at the IC pipe boots. It also only shows up at higher boost pressures. Another possibility is that the MAF needs turned, so the sensor is on the outer curve of the j-pipe. Worth a shot.
Old 07-30-2005, 11:52 AM
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fast951
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Ted, just in case you read this in time.. I called but I keep getting voice mail...
Start inspecting the simple things:
- WG - Not sure which you have, if Tial make sure it's connected correctly
- Boost controller
- Check ALL hoses & clamps on the pressure side of the intake.
- Coil, wires, distributor cap & rotor? Don't assume if they are new that they are fine.
- TPS - (not likely as it's boost related)
- Run the street maps to make sure it's not detonation related if you are not using 100oct+ gas.

My guess is that something is related to the WG or hoses...
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Old 07-30-2005, 02:36 PM
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Peckster
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Mine used to do that but it gradually got better as I replaced stuff for other reasons. I'd suspect a hose or connection that opens up only under high pressure, possible a crack underneath where you can't see it or something.

Boosting over 15 psi is living dangerously imo.
Old 07-30-2005, 03:51 PM
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fast951
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Talked to Ted, I believe his Tial WG was installed incorrectly. Hopefully he had a chance to correct it in time for the dyno.
Old 07-30-2005, 05:40 PM
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The boost issue was taken care of, thanks John! I think it is funny how you knew EXACTLY what the problem was within 2 seconds on the phone!! The problem was with another vendor's product, and John still walked me through the steps to get it resolved! Thanks again!

On the other hand, I have a SERIOUS misfire at anything over 14psi. The car did this back when it was mostly stock, but it was tough to notice as it only gets REALLY bad at high boost levels. The MSD did not change the situation. I changed the plugs, tried a few different gaps, wires are new magnecore, cap and rotor are new. I just don't know what else it could be. I am going to try to pick up a new cap and rotor right now, and see if that makes a difference. Any ideas?
Old 07-30-2005, 06:29 PM
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Ted, if I get a $ for every Tial installed backward I will be a very happy ($$$) man..
The ignition misfire can be caused by many things. First, I would remove the MSD and keep the stock parts. You can visually inspect the cap & rotor, try someone else's before buying (remember, a wasted spark is coming). Another thing will be to try a different DME. If the ignition driver is getting tired, it will act up under load (eventually all the time).
Old 07-30-2005, 08:55 PM
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Ted, this is going too sound TOO BASIC to be the problem, but have you checked the entire length of your battery leads (+ and -). I had a problem like yours that I spent HOURS, and a LOT of money trying to find. The insulation burned off of the pos cable, and would arc when the car really squatted, as it would get just close enough too surrounding metal. No crap. It was that basic. Follow it all the way. 8 dollars later, and a half hour of labor, problem solved. Good luck.
Old 07-30-2005, 09:46 PM
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Well, we just bought a crap-o advanced auto cap and rotor, threw it on and everything is good to go! The OE bosch cap and rotor were brand new!! I don't know what the problem could have been with them. Anyways, I just did a few 24psi runs down the street. . . . . . .my new problem is traction.
Old 07-30-2005, 09:48 PM
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Yes - the rotor allen-head screw should not be torqued to 57 ft/lb Ted.

Tell that guy in the STI to call you daddy.
Old 07-30-2005, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by special tool
Yes - the rotor allen-head screw should not be torqued to 57 ft/lb Ted.
You know my motto, it's not tight until the threads start to pull out!
Old 07-30-2005, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tedwright
Well, we just bought a crap-o advanced auto cap and rotor, threw it on and everything is good to go! The OE bosch cap and rotor were brand new!! I don't know what the problem could have been with them. Anyways, I just did a few 24psi runs down the street. . . . . . .my new problem is traction.
A Driver Education (DE) weekend will do wonder to your traction problem. Of course a LSD helps "some".
Old 07-31-2005, 12:00 AM
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I am going to try like all hell to get another event in this season. . . . .

LSD and some wider tires are in my future!
Old 07-31-2005, 12:58 AM
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You goinna put a Quaife in the 6 speed Tedmeister?


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