There is a used engine on eBay now for $1500. Just a thought.

 

I am saddened to hear of your engine man. I am going through something similar with my #4 cyl reading zero compression. I have only put around 4k on the car since I got it too. Keep us posted.

 

Autobahn Dismantling in San Diego has high-compression used ones starting at $650. Call them at (619)444-2290. ask for owner Sean.

Zach

 

Thanks for all the kind words. When I discover more about the engine- I will make a decision as to what is my best course of action. I probably will have to go with the cheapest route- I cant afford to do it right and spend the money- I am getting pretty low on funds-plus I already did that once. I was going to get a Vitesse MAF- but unfortunate that wont happen for a while- at least until I get her running again.
Upon removal of the engine (which only took me 4 hours this time!!) this Is what I found: Broken number 2 rod. I haven’t disassembled the engine any further I just pulled it and looked through the hole in the oil pan and saw the rod. I am very surprised to find this- I had the rods checked at local engine machine shop. Maybe a valve dropped or I broke a spring. I re-used the valves (they were all within specs)- and checked the springs to be sure they were the correct tension.
Here are some details on the rebuild. My car had a bad turbo. I decided to do the engine after compression test showed variation in the cylinders 3 were 145 one was 125. upon removal discovered some scoring. The engine ran fine and did not blow up. Just had a leaky turbo, poor compression and some leaks. I decided to do the job right. I found a good block for $250 (perfect bores) and used that instead of new pistons and machine work. Had it steam cleaned and the bores checked- also had everything else checked (rods, crank, head ect). I did also get the oil cooler steam cleaned just in case. Piston pins were within spec along with crank and rod journals. Replaced piston pin keepers and used new rod nuts. I did re-use old rod studs- head studs- main studs. I added orings to the head and did a minor PP job. I also did the valve job myself- using a old hot rodder friends tools and shop. I got most of the parts from Lindsey racing- they have good service and I get the parts the next day with standard shipping! Like I mentioned earlier I made sure everything was within factory specs. My shop was super clean when I built the motor. I have the factory manuals and used them. Who knows? Maybe Its just bad luck. Or maybe the Machine ship did a poor job. I am not too motivated at this point. The thought of doing it all over again does not sound that appealing- and my girlfriend might not be as understanding this time around. I haven’t slept much in the last couple of months. I averaged about 8 hours a day on the car. Plus working. I don’t think I even took a day off until it was done. I think I’m a bit burned out. Here is some of what I did: 86 951
used low miles transaxle- installed Turbo S LSD (took me 4 days to figure this out and get it done- I had to build tools) and all new seals
new engine, head, SFR turbo, wide band, Tial wastgate, crank breather, stage 2 hybrid SPEC clutch.
Wrapped header, crossover, and downpipe in exhaust wrap.
Installed EGT bung in header, bungs in test pipe and cat pipe
Installed 968 Mo30 suspension (sway bars, spindles, hubs, brakes, struts, rear coil overs)
installed paragon products coil over kit on struts -350#
Fabricated custom rear coil evers using the 968Mo30 shocks
Installed strut brace
built myself some cool camber plates
all new wheel bearings
new fuel, oil and vacuum lines
Installed The Laust vacuum manifold
installed Iceshark full boat headlight kit with Euro fog lights.
Installed 996 TT hollow spoke 18" wheels - 295 in back!

I had allot of fun building this car. its been a fun work in progress. It was a beast- the waistgate makes such a huge difference- I cant imagine what the car would have been like with more boost and the test pipe installed (was running the cat for smog). I just wish icould go drive it home Ill post more info when I take the engine back apart- I will also PM about engines once I know for sure that the block is toast (I am betting it is). THanks again for all the help and encouragement.

 

I just disassembled an engine that had a rod failure on #1. What's interesting is that it was truely a rod failure, not a burnt bearing or hardware failure.





The rod journal and wrist pin were normal wear, no damage, the rod just snapped. There is a portion at one end of the break that looks like it had oil exposure for some time so it might have had a crack that just worked it's way in from the surface. Did the shop that said they were cool magnaflux them or just measure tolerance?

Any other rod breakage failures out there?

That's a big bummer about your engine. Keep at it and show us pics of the autopsy.

 

Matt - please post the part number on that rod.

 

That WAS a forged rod, strange failure indeed!

Chris White

 

Here's an engine on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsc...spagenameZWDVW

Gary

 

is it just me, or are the compression readings on that engine 155-150-150-138, not 150 across the board as the seller claims?

 

I have the rods at home, but they were forged rods - out of a stock '87 BTW. They had the "OAORST" on the end of the part #.

The block # is:

M44/51
45H01961

and the block match # is 2254 (on the bal shaft covers and girdle).