awilson40

Well, its working.
Thanks to all the pointers from great guys. I have a basic, working MAF on my car. I'll get some photos sometime soon.
Its a (used) Mustang MAF, with a coupling to connect it to the stock 'J' boot and a cone filter. Adapter harness plugs into the stock VAF connector. (used) Pro-M digital fuel controller. Total cost for project... $225.
It took me about 1 hour and 3 runs to tune.
It runs and starts up very well, as good as stock, perhaps a bit crisper throttle response, other than that, not much difference over stock. I'll keep running like this and perhaps build an intake pipe and relocate behind the headlight this fall.
Hows this for a flat A/F

pcarphanatik

Congratulations, and may I be the first to say you are one ingenious SOB!

This really makes entering the high hp arena more reasonable cost-wise....at least until something breaks!

KuHL 951

Good job! I have worked over a couple 4.6L MAF's for friends hogging out the bulk of the cast divider obstructions in the flow. I always thought it would make a good toy to play with for our cars but got lost in the compatibility issues. You've done well. Keep us posted.

hally

cool Andrew!
so is it effectively calibrated to match the AFM, plus maybe utilizing more of the available top end voltage range? Any differences in tuning areas where AFM previously had been maxed out?

Eyal 951

exactly what i wanted to try doing. when you have some free time, can you pm me the part numbers i'll need to pickup, and any other relevant info, maybe even a write up? I will follow in your footsteps.
~Eyal

awilson40

I just got it in last week, My wife and I are going through a tough time so I'm putting my toys on the back burner for a while. Its a Ford 55 mm MAF F1ZF12B579AA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
And while small for larger turbos, its great for the k26-6. Very little signal modification.
As far as maxing the signal, I havent really analized that much yet. I do know The DME is seeing 4.5 v about 500 rpm later, but thats after it has been massaged, so I would need to look and the MaFTuner to see what the input V would be at that point.
I had to cut a 3 in length of 3 in pipe and use couplings to allow the maf to connect under the intercooler outlet tube. You can pick up MAF pigtails connectors on EBAY or at a junk yard. I had an old VAF so I took that connector and made a patch cable. You could wire it in directly. Right now I have a 2.2k resistor for a fixed temp input. When I make the intake pipe to relocate the MAF, then I'll install a temp sensor also.
Relocating will take more time and effort, but anyone could do what I have done so far and have a working system.

toddk911

I had looked into this for some time. Ebay USed MAF and some custom chips or a/f controller. of course the concensus was "just spend the money and get it from a tuner"

Glad to see someone follow through and for minimal cost and tuning time. That was another issue stated "your gonna spend weeks trying to tune it and it will never really be right"

You proved that wrong I 've seen graphs in here not half as clean as that a/f line and that was with dyno or SMT6 after hours!!!! of tuning, not 1 hour and only 3 runs.

Well, as a business man, all I can say is start packaging and selling them!!!

Oh, what model/year of Mustang MAF did you use?? I was looking at the 5.0 ones used on ebay for dirt cheap.

awilson40

Its a 91-93 I think, you can use the 55 mm like I have, or the larger 70mm from the cobra.
This one was suggested to me and sense 55mm is larger than the turbo inlet anyway,
I figured no need to go larger. When I'm home I can also post the Input vs output voltage chart from the MafTuner software. With that info, you could use any signal massager you wanted.
I picked up this one for $150 used so I could resist.

pcarphanatik

[QUOTE=awilson40]Its a Ford 55 mm MAF F1ZF12B579AA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
QUOTE]

Heh that place is local to me!

IanS

FYI, the MAF on the 1.8T, which is approximately 60mm, maxes out its reading ability around 210 g/sec. On the 1.8T, that equated to around 280hp. The Ford MAFs may be different from the Bosch ones, but I would suggest at least a 70mm MAF for the 951, both for flow reasons and so you have some leeway in turning up the boost.

Turbocharger inlets are always the smallest diameter part of the system, but I think its typical that everything upstream of the turbo is about twice diameter of the actual inlet, and certainly never the same size.

Great job!

-Ian

awilson40

Very good point, I had planned on keeping an eye open for a 70mm as it would be a direct replacement for what I have. Then I sould see the differences in tuning required between the 2 mafs.

awilson40

For those who are interested, here is the Volt in vs Volt out for the 55mm, 19lb maf that I used. FYI I set the voltage flat at the low end so the min would not drop below .55 v. Seemed to improve idle at cold start and stopped the RPM from dropping real low after hard runs.

hally

whats your user 1 voltage over on the RHS / high RPMS where it has flatlined ?

Eyal 951

doyou happen to have a part number on the 70mm maf? thats the one i wanted to use.
~Eyal

WesM951

Nice work! I'll have some questions, but it gotta get to bed.

BTW, Mustang MAF years where 90-93 some 89 cars had MAF but 90 is the definate yr.