Tom M'Guinn

I'm trying to collect all the sealants I'll need for my engine rebuild. The manual calls for RTV 730 (for the oil pan). I called my local dealer for it, since it has a part number, and surprise - they had a tube on the shelf. THEY WANTED $224 FOR A SMALL TUBE OF IT!!! Has anyone found a more reasonably priced supplier, or does everyone just substiture something else?

theedge

This might be an alternative. The Right Stuff comes off very easily if the pan has to come off, the gasket can even be reused with it.

Yeah, I had to take the pan off.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...light=ultimate

hosrom_951

Tom: The specialist replaced the oil pan gasket on my car, he informed me that he used a 'standard' clear high temperature RTV. It's been 7 months since we tackled the oil pan gasket, still dry here.

Cyrus951

According to Danno, you can go to a Yamaha dealer and pick up a tube of Yamabond-4, which he says is a respectable substitute.

hosrom_951

Just got off the phone with the specialist, they used Wurth High Temp. RTV

special tool

You can use Yamabond. It works.
Better make sure that damn thing is dry.

chilibluepepper

Tom, if you are still interested in an alternate source for Dow Corning 730, you might want to contact Applied Industrial Technologies (http://smp.applied.com/). They list the 3 oz tube for $80.00, and it appears they have some business locations near you.

TRWright

I didn't use anything. I just made sure to clean it up really well where the old stuff was. 1 month and almost 2k miles later, not a drop for there. I think you would need this stuff if you were doing the gasket while the engine was in the car (to hold it in place while you put the oil pan on), but when the engine is out of the car and upside down, it stays in place pretty well.

mark944turbo

I always use the right stuff, no leaks.

Porsche-O-Phile

Yamabond is better - it's used on motorcycles to seal aluminum cases without gaskets. Stuff is way more modern and better than the overpriced Porsche stuff.

Tom M'Guinn

Thanks all. I have a freshly cleaned block and pan, confirmed flat and clean as a whistle without a spec of oil/dirt etc. I am inclined to follow the factory recommendation for the pan (thanks for that link Alex) and use 730 only in the corners. I guess I've always viewed those other techniques as ways to deal with problems (like unflat mating surfaces, fighting grease and oil while changing in the car, etc.).

Is it just stupid to follow the factory method?

Has anyone followed the factory method (with real 730) on a clean rebuild and had problems?

Porsche-O-Phile

No it's not stupid, but think of how many 951s went back to the dealer to repair leaking oil pans after 20,000, 30,000, etc. miles. The "bombproof" method (search under Danno's name) is pretty much. . . well. . . bombproof. I've never heard of one failing to date. In fact Danno himself ran his own car without any oil pan bolts UNDER BOOST and the thing held up. That's a pretty damn fine endorsement of the strength of the stuff in my book. How it holds up long-term is another matter, but like I said I've never seen one fail once done properly.

I have to do this same repair soon and for desire of not wanting to do it again anytime soon, I'll be using the Yamabond/bombproof method.

ldt1

Would you be interested in buying a bridge??? I will locate the part no. Sounds like those 800 dollar NASA hammers imo.

Dash01

The rest of the known universe of aluminum pans and motor oil seems to get by just fine on standard sealants, available at any auto parts place for several bucks. Why would a Porsche, presumably with tighter manufacturing tolerances, be any different?

If you want a belt & suspenders approach (for peace of mind), get one of those oil pan rail thingies that everybody raves about, for ~$85, as I recall.

Tom M'Guinn

I have the part number, thanks.