Fixing my blown headgasket
07-18-2005, 11:00 AM
#18
I never notice, anyway
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Originally Posted by Sami951
It's the SPEC alum. pressure plate. Clutch is SPEC stg II 
07-19-2005, 02:52 AM
#20
Drifting
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Guess what guys, it fired right up on the first try 
Apparently the raceware studs need the retorque though, when the engine had warmed up I gave it some throttle and by the time I had 0,2 bar of boost on the gauge, it jerked in a nasty way and threw a huge cloud of white smoke out of the tailpipe... being dumb, I had to try it a few times with similar results every time ... At first we figured the rebuilt turbo was crap, but it turned out to be the head studs - the nuts were really loose; they turned easily about 180 degrees before they were back in correct torque... now we're going to try running the engine again to see if it still leaks, if yes in goes the stock head gasket, if not we'll simply change the oil and be done with it
Apparently the raceware studs need the retorque though, when the engine had warmed up I gave it some throttle and by the time I had 0,2 bar of boost on the gauge, it jerked in a nasty way and threw a huge cloud of white smoke out of the tailpipe... being dumb, I had to try it a few times with similar results every time ... At first we figured the rebuilt turbo was crap, but it turned out to be the head studs - the nuts were really loose; they turned easily about 180 degrees before they were back in correct torque... now we're going to try running the engine again to see if it still leaks, if yes in goes the stock head gasket, if not we'll simply change the oil and be done with it
07-19-2005, 06:11 AM
#21
Drifting
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Oh yeah, Tifo, it's the stock manifold, the colour just looks weird in that one picture.
I was thinking about the head studs and realized we didn't really oil the upper threads / nuts too well before torquing them. This would affect the tightening, yes? Dry 65lbft (or 20nm + 90 + 90 degrees) is actually less than it would be with oiled threads? Or not?
I was thinking about the head studs and realized we didn't really oil the upper threads / nuts too well before torquing them. This would affect the tightening, yes? Dry 65lbft (or 20nm + 90 + 90 degrees) is actually less than it would be with oiled threads? Or not?
07-19-2005, 02:27 PM
#22
That Guy
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Yes you are supposed to put some oil on the studs and nuts. I have the ARP head studs and i also just put the cometic head gasket in. We tightened it and then waited about 24 hours like the instructions said to. We retorqued the studs the next morning and they all moved more (1/8 turn to 1/4 of a turn). then we started the car and The head gasket leaked out the rear. we put some radiator stop leak/head gasket repair in the water system and the thing didn't and hasn't leaked yet. We are taking the intake manifold off today to see what the stud torques are still at. I Suggest you check your torque after a couple days of driving the car cause i know thats how i blew my first head gasket.
-Ian
-Ian
07-21-2005, 06:07 PM
#23
Drifting
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Well, after retorquing the nuts it now seems to work fine.
Now I'm having a problem with the engine cutting out at ~4500 rpms but I think it just goes way too lean at that spot; need to adjust the MAP box a bit...
Now I'm having a problem with the engine cutting out at ~4500 rpms but I think it just goes way too lean at that spot; need to adjust the MAP box a bit...