Ok here's the thing. I replaced all the seals in my throttle body since it had massive leaks. I also soaked the TB and all metal parts in dissolve so it was perfectly clean for reassembly. Everything went back together ok, I installed it on my car. Pressure tested to 25psi and no more leaks. Took it for a drive down the road and the car is noticably slower. I don't understand how this can be. How much will a vacumm leak affect A/R ratio at WOT? I'm still showing lights in the same area on my narrow-band A/F gauge as before.

The only other change was I found that my air idle screw was never seated far enough down since the threads were messd up from the old screw popping out. I fixed the threads and adjusted the screw. But the idle screw adjustment shouldn't make any difference at WOT.

Also I my TPS is working just fine. I have an AVC-R that shows TPS function. at idle it's 0%, WOT shows 100%. So that's adjusted right also.

I just don't get it. It's not like there is that much to the TB. It's quite simple. If a seal or something was out of place it would leak like it did before.

Side note: I rebuilt two TB's side by side as one was for a customer's car. His had one very small leak on the TPS side and made no difference in car performance.

 

Narrow band gauge are'nt accurate. It could just be that
your AR is rich & the leak actually help to lean out the
mixture a little.

 

You connected back all the vacuum lines right? Encluding the small line comming off the bottom of the TB?
~Eyal

 

Yeah I don't trust my narrowband at all. If it was rich before and lean now I would think it would feel a bit faster if anything. I have an ARCII and adjusted it both on the lean and rich side. Little difference.

All the vacuum lines are connected. There is no noticable leaks anywhere in the lines. The port on the bottom of the TB is plugged off.

I think my alternator is going bad, reading just under 12v when warm, just barely over 12v when cold. Maybe that has something to do with it.

 

Sounds like you do have an electrical issue. Hard to say if that's related. Did that just start after pulling the throttle body off? Do anything else at the same time? It's easy to get the throttle cam on wrong and/or mis-adjust the throttle cable, such that you don't get WOT when you put your foot to the floor. With the car off, confirm that the throttle is opening all the way (throttle plate rotates perpendicular to bore) when you have the gas pedal to the floor.

 

Before I installed the TB I adjusted the TPS so it was in the correct position, at idle and at WOT. I confirmed this after it was plugged in with my AVC-R. I made no changes to the throttle cable adjustment so that all should be the same. I made no other changes at that time either. I will double check the mechanicals for WOT tomorrow just to be sure.

I did notice today that my car was overboosting as if a hose came off the wg. All hoses are still connected. My new theory is that fixing the leaks actually changed my boost curve enough that the AVC-R has to "re-learn" the gear based boost control. I played with the settings a little bit and it helped but it's still not on par with how the power was before.

To fix my alternator issues I am currently looking for a smaller non-OEM alt. that will fit with little modification. I was told a Nissan Sentra alt. will work but I don't know what year and of all I checked the highest output was 70 amps.