Musche

....I made more than one change at a time! Now the turbo is experienceing some problems. Here's the sequence of events:
1. I was going to put in some gauges and a Sparco steering wheel so while working around the DME I decided to unhook the airbag controller. The PO had someone deactivate the passenger side and the annoying airbag and seatbelt lights were on so I thought I would solve this problem. I unhooked the plug on the airbag controller and jumped pins 3 and 4 so the fuel pump relay would get power.
2. Tested this mod and the car started and airbag and seatbelt light not on.
3. Got a newAutometer A/F ratio gauge and installed it along with a boost and oil pressure gauge. Ran the signal wire to pin 24 of the DME. Removed and soldered directly to the pin then reinstalled and made sure it was secure in the slot.
4. Started the car for a few minutes to see if A/F was working. Lights started in the stoichiometric and went towards lean as the O2 sensor heated up. Shut off the car and let it cool.
5. Installed a new Bosch O2 sensor, the good one with the plug already attached.
6. Put the DME and glovebox items back together. Went to start the car and, you guessed it...no start. After putzing around for a while checking speed and reference sensors, looking for pinched wires, etc. I figured out that the car would start after cranking for a while until the seatbelt light goes out. The weird thing is that it doesn't fire until you let the key back to run. Usually you feel the car start and then let off the key. Now it starts after you let off the key.
7. Rehooked up the airbag module thinking this may be part of the problem and unkooked the A/F ratio guage signal trying to get back to where I started from. Still no luck in normal starting.
8. Took the car out for a ride and it runs but not very well. I can tell it's running rich by the smell and popping in the exhaust. Upon boost it misses and runs terrible.

So now I need the Lister's help. I haven't yet put the old O2 sensor back in but that's my next step unless somebody has a better idea. I hope I didn't burn up something. I had also noticed that the fuse for the cooling fan # 1 was blown (probably been that way for a while since only one fan ran). I put in a new 25A fuse. During my test drive the temp gauge was abnormally high and when I pulled back in the garage, the fans were only on low speed. I pulled the fuse and fan 2 kicked into high speed. So now fellow Rennlist fans, help me out and give me some ideas. Pleeeeeze.

quinnfiske

You have a number of problems here and you need to isolate them and solve them individually. For instance, the cooling fan issue is a problem isolated from the others. It seems like the car at least ran until you changes O2 sensors. Put the old one back in and see if that makes the car start. I think the airbag issues are isolated from the others.

Musche

I realize this and that is why I am putting things back to the way they were. Right now I need to concentrate on the starting issue. It just seems as though power is being held back to the DME or DME relay or something until the stupid seatbelt light goes off. Whatever it is is not being supplied power is only getting it in the run position, not the start position.

cpt_koolbeenz

Did you un-jumper the fuel pump when you put the airbag plug back on?

Theo951

I do not remeber if the Pin 24 on DME is the narrow O2 signal input, but I do remeber the the cable was a green shield cable, for EMC protection, hence difficult to work on it.
If you short the O2 output the DME will read 0 volts, meaning lean condtition and provides more fuel.
That you have faced already.
Check with an Ohm meter the O2 heaters resistant (some Ohms should be OK) as check the O2 out from open or short.
The rest has nothing to do with it.
Kr
Theo

special tool

Watch those words, Theo.
If you SHORT the o2, you will immediately blow fuse #34, and have no fuel pump.

If you OPEN the o2, you will get rich condition.

Musche

I have unjumpered the fuel pump, swapped a new DME relay with no success. Yes, the wire was green and the shield was next to it. All fuses are ok. When I get to look at it again, I'm going to check for voltage at the relay with an emergency jumper plug as in the Clark's garage writeup. I'm also going to check for spark while cranking prior to seatbelt light going off.

reno808

If you the 3 wire 02 the u should hook it up to the singnal wire (black).

Theo951

Special Tool,
you are right.
If you short the heater on the O2 (wire no 3 in red spot) you face problems with fuel pump.

The issue is, that I am speaking about the O2 output (wire 1 in blue spot).
If you open it, or short it on ground, it will cause rich condition as you well described already.
Since this is the case, I bed it will be something like that.
I am I afraid that maybe the pin of the DME connector is pushed back, when is re installed.
Kr
Theo

Musche

Thanks guys, but I made sure the pin was properly seated and took it back apart to make sure. I have another post about my starting issue. Seems I don't have spark when cranking but as soon as you let go of the key to go to run the spark returns and the engine fires. I'm looking into a bad coil or the ignitor circuit in the DME being toasted.