Ground Control camber plates
#1
Ground Control camber plates
Will these fit the stock '86 setup? Is there any aftermarket suspension setup they wont work on?
Also, will a Racing Dynamics strut brace influence the fitment of the plates? Anyone know or have experience?
Also, will a Racing Dynamics strut brace influence the fitment of the plates? Anyone know or have experience?
#2
The advice i received on adjustable camber plates is that when u adjust camber toe is affected significantly. So easy switching between track and road settings is misleading, your toe gets messed up. This is bad news for me i wanted to run less camber on the road to get more life out of my front tyres.
As i understand it you can get greater negative camber with aftermarket plates though so that would be useful for some people I guess.
As i understand it you can get greater negative camber with aftermarket plates though so that would be useful for some people I guess.
#5
Hally is absolutely right, however, it's not that difficult to set/adjust your toe. If you can set your camber, you can set your toe. There are a number of different methods. I like and use Toe-Plates, easy, cheap, and done correctly, accurate.
Check out the Longacre Site for a description and proceedure. Here: http://www.longacreracing.com/instru....asp?INSTID=23 and Here: http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=5
BTW, the amount the Toe changes relative to a Camber change is dependent on the amount of Caster you have. In other words, If you are running "a lot" of Caster, then changing/increasing Camber produces "a lot" of Toe change... if you're running a "little" Caster, then Camber changes produce a "little" Toe change.
Check out the Longacre Site for a description and proceedure. Here: http://www.longacreracing.com/instru....asp?INSTID=23 and Here: http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=5
BTW, the amount the Toe changes relative to a Camber change is dependent on the amount of Caster you have. In other words, If you are running "a lot" of Caster, then changing/increasing Camber produces "a lot" of Toe change... if you're running a "little" Caster, then Camber changes produce a "little" Toe change.
#6
951's don't have a lot of caster, maximum of 3 degrees generally. Yes, toe changes as camber changes but on our cars, it's not unworkable.
Generally for the street you'll want a slight degree of toe in for greater straight line stability and resistance to wandering or groove tracking. At the track, you may prefer some toe out to encourage more rapid turn-in characteristics.
So set up your car as you want on the street for camber and toe. Increaseing the camber for track use will produce desirable effects of increasing turn-in at the cost of straight line stability and inside tire wear. Since you're at the track, straight line stability is not a real issue and inside tire wear even less so since you generally destroy the outside of the tire.
Next time you're on an alignment rack, see the impact for yourself. Once the car is dialed in as you'd like to see on the street, move in the camber plates and see what the impact is to toe. This will tell you the limits of what you can comfortable do with a quick change.
Generally for the street you'll want a slight degree of toe in for greater straight line stability and resistance to wandering or groove tracking. At the track, you may prefer some toe out to encourage more rapid turn-in characteristics.
So set up your car as you want on the street for camber and toe. Increaseing the camber for track use will produce desirable effects of increasing turn-in at the cost of straight line stability and inside tire wear. Since you're at the track, straight line stability is not a real issue and inside tire wear even less so since you generally destroy the outside of the tire.
Next time you're on an alignment rack, see the impact for yourself. Once the car is dialed in as you'd like to see on the street, move in the camber plates and see what the impact is to toe. This will tell you the limits of what you can comfortable do with a quick change.
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#8
I used KMR (kelly moss) plates and a Racing dynamics bar. It caused the hood to contact the strut brace and rub 2 divets into the brace about dead center when placed on top of the plates. KMR are the same design as the GC plates.
I took the brace off - problem solved
I took the brace off - problem solved