ibkevin

What does the stock boost gage do when it gives up the ghost? Mine stays at .81 bar as long as the ignition is on. Is there an easy fix for this?
I'm not crazy about adding an aftermarket eventhough future mods will require one.

Cheers

reno808

well a aftermarket gauge is alote more accurate. And you prob going to understand it better. If you plann to do modds were u r going to get hp then u might as well get a boost guage. I plan to put a a/f ratio meter 2morrow.

KuHL 951

I just got my VDO boost and AFR gauges in yesterday, the OE on mine doesn't help me much on a modded car. I mounted mine to the right side of the steering wheel shroud. I'm not fond of pillar gauges and the cubby location is not in the line of site. I can still read all the cluster gauges through a Momo wheel, it wouldn't work with a OE wheel. Does your gauge move at all when the car is running or is it stuck on .81?

ibkevin

Thanks Guys,

Just got back from Central City where the elavation is about 9,300'. As I climbed into the hills out of the backside of town the boost gage continued to decrease (basicaly a barometer) to .77-.78, upon return to Denver she's back to .81.

Is my altimeter whacked?

Tom M'Guinn

Any chance the plastic tube running to the KLR got diconnected? Any other engine quirks? You can remove the banjo from the intake and blow/suck on the fitting to see if it is open on the other end. If that checks out (i.e., if it holds a vacuum/pressure), then check the voltage on pin 5 of the KLR -- mine has about .32 vdc at sea level, .05 vdc or less at idle, and up to 1 volt on boost, depending on how high you boost. If those voltages check out, then it is either your gauge in the dash or the harness running to it.