951 engine rebuild
#1
951 engine rebuild
After a search in the forum I still know as much as before
Can anyone please tell me if and what part(s) have to be removed to get out the engine upways (hood must be removed of course)?
Your answers will save me tim that I can use for documentation
kind regards Frank
(engine has about 120 kilo 72 kilo miles)
Can anyone please tell me if and what part(s) have to be removed to get out the engine upways (hood must be removed of course)?
Your answers will save me tim that I can use for documentation
kind regards Frank
(engine has about 120 kilo 72 kilo miles)
#3
i dropped it out the bottom too. however, if you want to remove it from the top it's not that difficult. remove the hood and the fan assembly and radiator and what not, possibly the headlights. however, a must is taking off the bellhousing. then it's easy as pie.
#4
You will have to remove (major items):
Hard Pipe for the Radiator.
The headlight motor and lifting mechanism.
The radiator has to come out. (Good time to check it.)
Power steering pump reservoir (might be able to get by
without doing that but it was so easier to move out of the way)
You still have to drop the front suspension but I didn't remove it, just
dropped the bolts and let it hang while via the control arms.
Once you unbolt it from the torque tube it has to go way forward to the point where it bumps into the hood latch. I didn't have the right lifting bar and it was a mother huncher to get that nose picked up, without bending the crap out of the driveshaft.
Get a good lifter bar for the cherry picker. This is a must. We lost 3 hours dicking with my slings.
Bottom line:
If I didn't use a lift or have a lift accessible, I would not go through the top again. It took 7 hours to get it out, 1 hour to place the new one back in. Of course I was a newby at it so I'm sure the experts are much faster.
Hard Pipe for the Radiator.
The headlight motor and lifting mechanism.
The radiator has to come out. (Good time to check it.)
Power steering pump reservoir (might be able to get by
without doing that but it was so easier to move out of the way)
You still have to drop the front suspension but I didn't remove it, just
dropped the bolts and let it hang while via the control arms.
Once you unbolt it from the torque tube it has to go way forward to the point where it bumps into the hood latch. I didn't have the right lifting bar and it was a mother huncher to get that nose picked up, without bending the crap out of the driveshaft.
Get a good lifter bar for the cherry picker. This is a must. We lost 3 hours dicking with my slings.
Bottom line:
If I didn't use a lift or have a lift accessible, I would not go through the top again. It took 7 hours to get it out, 1 hour to place the new one back in. Of course I was a newby at it so I'm sure the experts are much faster.
#5
First of all, you do NOT have to remove the bell housing. Also, the radiator can stay in. All I removed was:
Pull exhaust, WG.
pull starter
disconnect the TT
remove engine mount shields
disconnect oil cooler lines
remove oil pressure sender....i was afraid to damage it
p/s pump and alternator belt...bring alternator as far in as possible
hood of course
pull harness off of engine
steering knuckle bolt
4 engine mount bolts
coolant hard pipe in front...i left my headlights in...worked fine
castor block bolts
cross memeber bolts
crank pulley
ref sensors and grounds in back...misc coolant lines
the rest you can figure out
note: i had my head and headers out when I did it that way...not sure if that matters
Pull exhaust, WG.
pull starter
disconnect the TT
remove engine mount shields
disconnect oil cooler lines
remove oil pressure sender....i was afraid to damage it
p/s pump and alternator belt...bring alternator as far in as possible
hood of course
pull harness off of engine
steering knuckle bolt
4 engine mount bolts
coolant hard pipe in front...i left my headlights in...worked fine
castor block bolts
cross memeber bolts
crank pulley
ref sensors and grounds in back...misc coolant lines
the rest you can figure out
note: i had my head and headers out when I did it that way...not sure if that matters
#7
Wow, I can't believe you can get the engine out without pulling the radiator....It was so easy at that point to remove it I guess I felt safer having it out of the way. You didn't have to pull the headlight motor and linkage?? ditto for that one for me. I don't think I could have gotten it far enough forward. It was four bolts and pop of the joints so no biggy either way.
Little hint on the oil sending unit. Put it back on before putting the sway bar back up. It's a mother to put back on once those are in place, I had to break a 24 mm wrench to make a "custom" shorty
GET A GOOD LIFTER BAR. Probably why mine didn't go as easy as 9fitty1's.
Not sure if having the headers and head off would make a difference. Might have a little more wiggle room to turn the motor sideways and avoid the front hood brace.
Little hint on the oil sending unit. Put it back on before putting the sway bar back up. It's a mother to put back on once those are in place, I had to break a 24 mm wrench to make a "custom" shorty
GET A GOOD LIFTER BAR. Probably why mine didn't go as easy as 9fitty1's.
Not sure if having the headers and head off would make a difference. Might have a little more wiggle room to turn the motor sideways and avoid the front hood brace.
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#12
Yep, leveller is a MUST IMHO. I removed one from the top, and one from the bottom. Going out the bottom was MUCH easier. Going out the top left a lot of scratches and dents in things, out the bottom was very painless. I removed the alternator, and in hind-sight, I could have just removed the oil filter, would have worked just as well.
You CAN do it with the rad in, but it's 2 bolts at that point, and the risk of damage is high. Just remove it for safety's sake
Another vote for out the bottom. Also, the hood can stay on if you're going out the bottom.
No need to remove the headlights either way, since the hood latch sticks out just as far.
You CAN do it with the rad in, but it's 2 bolts at that point, and the risk of damage is high. Just remove it for safety's sake
Another vote for out the bottom. Also, the hood can stay on if you're going out the bottom.
No need to remove the headlights either way, since the hood latch sticks out just as far.
#13
Hello, don't forget the pressure plate bolts and fork pin, I two did 951 rebuilds in May, both times out the top, I like taking the hood off, go figure, charging over 8K for a motor build requires some hood adjustment, plus the car is lighter to push around the shop without it, ooh I forgot, don't break the windshield with that hood, being there done that, working humor.
#14
^^ wow, lets not get into breaking the windsheild. I think I will cry. I have taken off 3 hoods in my time and never had a problem with that, but of course on MY car it happens. ugh.
#15
I broke my windshield the first time I did my engine, after a long process of getting the engine built and re-installing it, I break the windshield putting the hood back on. I was really bummed...Next one went out the bottom!