How bad is the oil pan gasket?
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I need to fix my leaking oil pan gasket soon. I have seen the stuff on clarks garage. Is this something I should try to do myself, with just ramps/jackstands? Or is it better just to have a shop do it? How much should it cost, the Porsche dealer quotes around $4000!!! That can't be right!
-Josh
-Josh
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IF you do it you'reself, you would need to support the engine somehow since you would need to remove the cross-memeber to remove the pan.
My local porsche specialist charged me AED2,000 (US$550) labour wise. I got the pan gasket, exhaust wrap (for the x-over pipe) and told the mechanic to install a new battery cable.
US$4,000 is crazy expensive, the local dealer wanted to charge me AED3,000 (US$820) for just the oil pan job.
My local porsche specialist charged me AED2,000 (US$550) labour wise. I got the pan gasket, exhaust wrap (for the x-over pipe) and told the mechanic to install a new battery cable.
US$4,000 is crazy expensive, the local dealer wanted to charge me AED3,000 (US$820) for just the oil pan job.
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
If you are using Mobil 1, you may want to give dino oil a try first (maxlife even better). That seemed to fix all my many leaks, to my amazement.
#5
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It's not that bad, brace the engine from above, remove crossmember, steering rack then oil pan. Not too bad if you ask me, but then again, I did mine on an engine stand
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If your mechanically inclined then its not bad. I did mine in my garage twice. After the first time it went pretty fast. After talking to a Porsche mechanic he told me to actually contact cement the gasket to the block, since the gasket kept U-ing out between the bolts the first time I did it.
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Do the rod bearings if they haven't been done yet. Never a better time. I just had mine done. I removed all of the intake stuff and crossover pipe and then trailered the car to the mechanic. Saved about half on labor. This also aloud me to take my time putting things back together so that I could check all of the vaccumm connections with the manifold off. I think I paid $400 in labor.
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Originally Posted by Zero10
It's not that bad, brace the engine from above, remove crossmember, steering rack then oil pan. Not too bad if you ask me, but then again, I did mine on an engine stand ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
If you are using Mobil 1, you may want to give dino oil a try first (maxlife even better). That seemed to fix all my many leaks, to my amazement.
If you are using Mobil 1, you may want to give dino oil a try first (maxlife even better). That seemed to fix all my many leaks, to my amazement.
#14
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The hardest part is all the things you should do "while you are in there." At the minimum, rod bearings and oil pick-up o-ring, and check motor mounts. This was my first project when I bought my car, and I didn't find it too bad. I used a home-made brace (search for pictures/descriptions.)
BTW the MySwiiss brackets are mainly for when you rebuild the engine and the blow-by from the new rings pressurises the oil pan gasket. I didn't have any probl;ems with the new gasket squeezing out.
BTW the MySwiiss brackets are mainly for when you rebuild the engine and the blow-by from the new rings pressurises the oil pan gasket. I didn't have any probl;ems with the new gasket squeezing out.
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Originally Posted by tedwright
Interesting. . . . . I might just have to try that.