What the hell do you use to drive that bolt thats got to be an m8 bolt ?
There really is no room there .... I assume you had kept the ASO in place when trying to remove that bolt.... That's a mistake I wont make again
That gasket that they use there is like some kind of paper **** that seems to fall apart
I would love to replace it with a better material ....
The head looks pretty sweet
I see you installed the quick shift was it pretty streight forward ?
take care
regards
Ed

 

That's German engineers for you. It just took me 9 HOURS to install my Iceshark negative battery cable! I did it without pulling the manifold, which wasted a lot of time. On top of that, I moved the reference sensor bracket, which broke the sensor connectors, which was enough to kill the sensors, which ended up adding another $240, for 2 new sensors, to my project fee for this weekend. Even the most simplistic things on these cars has to be more complicated then necessary. I love these cars, but WTF?!

 

I'm pretty sure it's an M6... that was almost a year ago, I've learned a lot mor about my strength... that was with a 3/8 ratchet my friend... It wouldn't happen now, since I'm pro (I'd just break something else)
~Eyal

 

Hos I dont know if you saw this ? in my earlier post
I thought it would come off but I didnt what to take a chance breaking it
Who is Mr Bruce ?
How is it removed ... Push down and turn ?
Thanks Hos
regards
Ed

Eyal
Nope I believe those are M8's but I have to say from your picture it does look like a M6
Did you install the Short shift yet ... Any tips ?
Also do you want the parts and numbers needed for this AOS rebuild ?
I should have them all tomorrow....
Just let me know

 

Tip for the short shift: For the bolt/brub screw that locks onto the shaft from the gearbox, use a short bolt, with an extra nut on the bolt. Tighten the bolt onto the shaft, and then tighten the nut onto the shifter block. 1 billion times more effective than the loctite everyone suggests. Use loctite aswell though!

 

Thanks Mike as always
Regards
Ed

 

I have a half-written head R&R write up I'll be posting someday soon. In the meantime, here are my rough notes on taking that bracket off. You gain access to the bolts by removing all the stuff in the way first...

"Remove rear coolant neck by (a) removing 4mm alan-keys holding down cycling valve and three hoses going to cycling valve, (b) removing hose clamp holding long ¾ inch hose going from venturi thing back to near brake booster (near black/blue vacuum do-hickey on firewall), and pull hose out from under coolant fitting area, (c) remove vaccum lines going to thermal switch and remove thermal switch with 19mm wrench, red tab to rear vacuum hose, (d) remove hose going to neck from heater valve, (e) remove two 13mm bolts holding cycling valve bracket and coolant neck to head and remove bracket and neck.

 

Hey Tom
Thanks I was referring to the OAS cap ..
I have all the other stuff off already
In hindsight I would have removed the AOS first
Would have made the removal a piece of cake
regards
Ed

 

I could use part numbers for the OAS rebuild if it doesnt require it to be removed. I haven't yet installed the SSK.
~Eyal