So I have finally gotten around to working on my 951. Things I am/was working on.

Kiss Aux. Oil Cooler: This is a great little kit. Comes with everything you need, except for a few things. Installation went pretty smoothly. As smoothly as it could go with the car not very high off the ground.

Special Tools you will need/would make it much much easier:
1-1/4 Wrench - big side of oil line
1-1/16 Wrench - small side of oil line
I got these in a huge wrench kit I bought when I rebuilt the top half of my engine. The 1-1/4 wrench double duties on a 944/951 as a cam gear holder if you are taking apart the cam box.

Another pair of hands. The oil cooler lines are on there pretty tight. I did this by myself, but that one oil cooler line on my car was on pretty tight.

Another pair of hands. For actually bolting in the other oil cooler. I'll post pictures of how I mounted it. The pictures I saw showed a mounting that wasn't even possible if you still actually had the fog light bucket there.

One of the other things I found helpful was to take the drill which you use to make holes in your fog light bucket for air, and use it on the bottom tabs of the oil cooler. This way you can take a super extra long 1/4 extension (another nice additional tool, everyone should have one for 944/51 maintenance) and put it through that hole to attach the top tabs to their mounting locations. Much easier.

Longer M6 hardware for the straps. The hardware included was too short to get the lock washer on there. Not actually impossible but short enough for me to swear in other languages and concede defeat. One more zip tie, which wouldn't have been a pain except I ran out the day before :-(.

New Pads:
Got my hawk pads (blue for the front, Hp+ on the rear) pretty awesome so far. Bit very quickly, but lots of dust. We'll see how they compare on saturday.


Now for the questions:
Up next is the 33/5 bias valve I should be getting from paragon tomorrow morning. This is in the passenger side fender correct? Just behind the fender liner? Am i going to need any special tools to get this thing off. Nobody made mention of any in their posts. Please save me some time.

Sway bar bushing:
I was aware that I had a power steering leak for some time. Not a big concern. Except that it destroys sway bar bushings. Well. I figured, hey this is a new bushing it will last me a while. NOT. I recall how much of a pain in the *** this thing was in the first place, and I am going to sebring on Saturday. The bushing really will only affect the accuracy of the sway bar, and not the stiffness correct. The other 3 bushings are straight, and I have the KLA triangulating bracket. Pictures to follow. Not wanting to do this. Please convince me otherwise or to replace it.

If I were to replace it, where am I going to get a rubber bushing for the M030 bar that would be here (clearwater fl) by the next day. Would vertex auto have it?

 

Images. Oil cooler and cracked out sway bar bushing.

 

Alternatively i could get delrin sway bar bushings from paragon. However, they are 39.99 plus overnight shipping isn't going to be cheap. Hmmm. Somebody help me out here. Need to make a descision.

 

Overnight, I'd leave the bushing alone, it's going to make the bar act softer (more understeer). Replace with Delrin when you get to it.

If you have ABS, your prop. valve is behind the passenger fender liner to the rear of the wheel. If not, it's hanging off the master cylinder. Search for pics previously posted.

Pressure test the KISS cooler before you put the bumper back on. I've seen 2 that weeped fluid around where the fitting meets the body on the cooler.

Sam

 

Double on that. If you tightened the oil line unions to the cooler fittings without counterholding the cooler fittings nuts there is a good chance you have a cracked fittign to cooler seal. They are light alloy, and they tear easily. Says so right there in the KISS install instructions.

BTW, one of the best $50 I've spent on tools was the thin metric oil line wrench set from ZDMAC - four wrenches 27mm, 30mm, 32mm, 36mm. Does every Porsche oil line fitting holding both sides at once. I've done 'em all now on late 60s through late 80s 911s and the 951. Gold!

 

APKhaos. Check on that. Listed among my special tools. There is no way you would get that thing loose without holding the other side.

No information on anything i will need to get the valve off. 86, non-abs car.

 

Tony, do you have a link for the ZDMAC wrench set?

TIA

John

 

Gator,
Once you get the fender liner off, you will see the bias valve on the inboard top of the ABS controller. Metric flare wrench gets it easily. Cut yourself a length of scap lumber to keep the brake pedal depressed an inch or two to prevent fluid from draining when you crack the bias valve line.

John,
Here they are - ZDMAC Oil Line Wrenches
Take a look at everything under the Porsche tab - nice stuff and decent prices.

 

APKhaos. Found the bias valve on the master cylinder. Disassembled and reassembed. Had to use a pair of vice grips on the body of the valve :-(. Size is somewhere between 3/4 and 1 inch. Line size is 11mm.

The oil cooler line was not fun at all. I did slip and tweaked it a bit, but there are no signs of cracking. I drove the car around for a while to get the thermostat open. No leaks. Drove around for over an hour. Is this what sam meant by 'pressure test', ie get the pump to push oil through the coolers?

 

Yep.
If you ran it up to full temp and had no leaks, you should be good.

The bias valve is probably 22mm. You really need to ditch those 'merican wrenches for some metric tools, brother.

 

Thanks Tony, I'll check it out.

John