dime1622

hey i just got done routing my new vacuum lines, done just as the 10-page write-up says, done to the tee. also installed a lindsey mbc. however, she doesnt want to start up now. when i turn the starter, it starts up fine and revs up like it should, then suddenly dies. i can keep it going, but it still stumbles. not unlike when the IC lines are off, but i checked all my IC lines, and theyre fine. theres no sound of a vacuum leak, and i know everything is tightened down well (made damn sure of that). my guess is that its not getting enough gas... any ideas? thanks!

dime1622

quick update, checked the plugs. theyre a little black but otherwise quite clean. in addition, when giving it gas to try to get it going, it sometimes gets this wicked "slap" noise like two pieces of metal whacking against eachother. dunno what it would be tho, because my timing didnt change.

Ski

whose write up?

dime1622

doc's - https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...00&postcount=5

yeah it really sounds like metal hitting metal. as noted by witnesses, sounds like its coming from the cam tower. could it really be metal hitting metal? or would detonation do this? when i DO get the motor revving by giving it enough gas, it sounds and feels like its missing. help me!

TRWright

Well, I had the same thing happen to me, I think I can help you. Shoot me a PM, or hit me up on AIM.

dime1622

could fuel sucking up into my vacuum lines from the fpr or fpd be doing this? then maybe im not getting enough fuel and the loud noise is detonation? when i replaced the vacuum lines, i replaced several broken and missing hoses - maybe the sudden presence of more vacuum has finally caused a failing fpr or fpd to fail? ideas?

Mikeaagesen

Did you put that black thing back into the top of the throttle body?

Ian Carr

If you are running a MBC you should have by-passed the cycle valve. did you take out the timed valve or cycle valve what ever you want to call it... if you didnt thats your problem just unplug it and your cotton.

dime1622

yeah, the cycling valve is sitting on my garage floor with the plug just hanging under the intake manifold

avainio

I had similar problems with my car after I did the belts and vacuum lines. I checked and rechecked the vacuum line connnections before I put the intake manifold back on. The car would start, then die, would never idle. It would run above 3000 RPM, but no power. I checked the FPR and replaced it with the GURU FPR, checked the TPS, took the top off the air flow meter and checked the contacts, then replaced the air flow meter with a known good used one. I pulled apart the DME and checked the solder joints. I replaced the chips with GURU chips. My boost control valve was bad, so I put in the 993TT unit. All with no change. I was unable to ever hear a vacuum leak. Finally, I just started pulling on the vacuum lines under the intake that I could reach from the front and found that I missed a clamp. I pulled the intake, tightened that and checked the rest and the car has run perfectly ever since. For such a simple problem, it was very hard to find. It doesn't account for the slapping sound, but it's worth a recheck. Good luck.
Arne.

Ski

here is how we set up a recent 89, did you do the venturi delete at the same time? good luck. you did nothing with the belts - did you ever turn the car over by hand or turn it backwards?

dime1622

close, but not quite. looks like this:

dime1622

i pulled the vac lines on the fpr and the fpd, theyre clean. engine still wont start with them off. i disconnected the tps, still didnt work. the tps clicks when i turn the throttle. its gotta be someting that i did or removed - maybe its my injectors?

can i check vacuum pressure without the engine running (as i cant keep mine going)?

can i check whether or not my injectors are injecting the correct amount of fuel?

Ian Carr

did u crack the line going to the klr? the car wont run if it doesnt have a presure signal

Ski

where is the line from your air/oil seperator going, AOS?