oil temperature readings
05-02-2005, 11:19 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by mroberts
Is there a source other than E-By for the drain plug temp senders ?
05-02-2005, 01:44 PM
#18
Can you get more airflow over your oil cooler? 250 degree oil temp is too hot for safety. My oil temp sender is low on the pan [welded a new plate next to the turbo return banjo]. Its an OK spot, but I needed to bend up a heat shield to keep some of the radiant heat from the turbo & xover pipe away from the sender.
Aim for a max hot-day pan oil temp below 240 degrees. The Kiss cooler initally pulled my temps down from slightly north of 250 to around 240. Some simple work to seal around the cooler and force more air through the cooler bought this down to 230 under identical hard race conditions.
Dont settle for temps above 240 in the pan. Too damn hot. The rule of thumb for oil cooled 911 engines is go east at 240, shut it down at 250. Oil properties start to break down in this range.
Aim for a max hot-day pan oil temp below 240 degrees. The Kiss cooler initally pulled my temps down from slightly north of 250 to around 240. Some simple work to seal around the cooler and force more air through the cooler bought this down to 230 under identical hard race conditions.
Dont settle for temps above 240 in the pan. Too damn hot. The rule of thumb for oil cooled 911 engines is go east at 240, shut it down at 250. Oil properties start to break down in this range.
05-02-2005, 02:26 PM
#19
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Tony,
I'm using the KISS setup too. I've recently enlarged my cutouts in the fog lamp recesses, and I'll try to improve on getting ALL the incoming air to go through the cooler.
Synthetics are still effective at temps where nonsynth break down, by approximately a 40 deg. additional margin. Nonetheless, I'd be very happy if I could get the "hot" temp down below 240.
Jon.
I'm using the KISS setup too. I've recently enlarged my cutouts in the fog lamp recesses, and I'll try to improve on getting ALL the incoming air to go through the cooler.
Synthetics are still effective at temps where nonsynth break down, by approximately a 40 deg. additional margin. Nonetheless, I'd be very happy if I could get the "hot" temp down below 240.
Jon.
05-02-2005, 09:13 PM
#21
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Hmmm...
As I mentioned previously, you must consider not only how you get air to, but really more importantly, how you exhaust the air from any heat transfer device in order that it work efficiently. If you simply put a cooler behind the foglamp and do nothing else, you will get just about that... nothing. Dumping this air into the inside of a sealed fenderwell won't flow much air.
I would imagine (or hope) that most people figure that out on their own. I have never seen one, but I imagine these KISS kits may duct the air somewhere? I might further imagine that would be into the fender well? Too bad really if they do.
It might be better than nothing, but fenderwells are generally a high pressure area. A lot of the air that crams under the bumper or slips around the nose will jump at the chance to enter the wheelwell. Any duct that exits into this area will thus be compromised in its efficiency. Like putting a Coke bottle in your mouth and trying to blow air into it.
Granted, it may cool you enough. However, if you are looking for more cooling, you might find it in smarter ducting!
Custom Hood Exit Duct, 911 GT3S oil cooler
As I mentioned previously, you must consider not only how you get air to, but really more importantly, how you exhaust the air from any heat transfer device in order that it work efficiently. If you simply put a cooler behind the foglamp and do nothing else, you will get just about that... nothing. Dumping this air into the inside of a sealed fenderwell won't flow much air.
I would imagine (or hope) that most people figure that out on their own. I have never seen one, but I imagine these KISS kits may duct the air somewhere? I might further imagine that would be into the fender well? Too bad really if they do.
It might be better than nothing, but fenderwells are generally a high pressure area. A lot of the air that crams under the bumper or slips around the nose will jump at the chance to enter the wheelwell. Any duct that exits into this area will thus be compromised in its efficiency. Like putting a Coke bottle in your mouth and trying to blow air into it.
Granted, it may cool you enough. However, if you are looking for more cooling, you might find it in smarter ducting!
Custom Hood Exit Duct, 911 GT3S oil cooler
05-02-2005, 09:53 PM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
Eclou- I cut out nearly the whole back part, as opposed to lots of holes, so there's plenty of intake space.
And just for the cyber-record, I stand corrected... the water temperature sensor IS in the block, not the head, although it is reading the water temperature directly from the water in head and supplying this to the DME. There is a 2nd sensor, also in the block, that reads water temperature in the cylinder jacket, which I think feeds the temperature guage. Hope I got this right.
Jon.
And just for the cyber-record, I stand corrected... the water temperature sensor IS in the block, not the head, although it is reading the water temperature directly from the water in head and supplying this to the DME. There is a 2nd sensor, also in the block, that reads water temperature in the cylinder jacket, which I think feeds the temperature guage. Hope I got this right.
Jon.