cruise98

Oops! Let me try that again. The old cut and paste got the fat finger treatment!


1 each Toothed roller 944.105.027.04
1 each Stud 944.102.216.01
1 each Nut 944.102.243.00

The toothed roller has an eccentric center similar to the balance shaft tensioner. Turn the tensioner ccw to tension the belt. I would replace the lock nuts for the three rollers # N 022.149.2 too.

951carter

I would advise against using the early stud & tensioner. Myself and a few others have had the stud snap and wreck the head. Unfortunately mine was on a new $3k head.

I updated to the later tensioner on my early car. It is not hard, most blocks have the bosses there, they just need to be drolled and tapped. It is easier with the engine out but I have done it with the engine in the car. Funny thing....the new tensioner I bought from Porsche had the idler on backwards! Luckily I caught it when I started the car! A guy on here went through 2-3 belts before posting. People were telling him his block was bad, etc but I told him to check the tensioner and sure enough his was on backwards too!!

JDeitz951

My stud snapped last summer (see my avatar for the nice "upgrade" that resulted). But I know why it snapped, entirely my fault for sloppy work during the reassembly after chasing down a front engine oil leak. I say the stud tensioner is not a weak point when carefully and properly installed and torqued.

951gashog

I read somewhere that due to the lower compression ratios on the turbos, that they are no longer "interference" type engines, in contrast with the 944na engines. Is this true, or if belt snaps all valves smacked??

JDeitz951

Untrue! See my previous post. To get from snapped tensioner stud to shiny new head, you must pass through crashed valve city!