KLR Pressure line HELP!
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Got a recurring nightmare about the pressure line connector on the KLR.
The tube fits over the barb. Is there a separate sealing ring as well as the metal screw fitting that secures the line? I think I felt something drop off the connector when pulling the engine, but can't be dead sure. PET is no help.
Does anyone recall a two-part [sealing ring + screw cap] connector on that line? This is driving me crazy!
The tube fits over the barb. Is there a separate sealing ring as well as the metal screw fitting that secures the line? I think I felt something drop off the connector when pulling the engine, but can't be dead sure. PET is no help.
Does anyone recall a two-part [sealing ring + screw cap] connector on that line? This is driving me crazy!
#3
Three Wheelin'
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The line to the intake manifold has a hollow bolt and three crush rings. Part #N 013.807.2
The connection to the KLR has a hollow bolt and two crush rings. # 959.618.116.00
There is a barbed connector that fits into the tube, and has a nut of some kind to secure it on the tube. The part # is 959.618.115.00 and they call it a "ring piece".
The connection to the KLR has a hollow bolt and two crush rings. # 959.618.116.00
There is a barbed connector that fits into the tube, and has a nut of some kind to secure it on the tube. The part # is 959.618.115.00 and they call it a "ring piece".
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Guys,
The fitting [banjo & rings] is OK, its the flex line over the barb that has a threaded nut [a knurled ring in fact]. I was worried that that knurled ring clamped down on a sealing ring around the pressure line, something like the ring in a compression fitting. Am I dreaming??
Sorry the original question wasn't clearer, and many thanks for the help! I'm trying to get this wrapped up before leaving for a 7 hour tow down to CMP for two races this weekend. THis is the one thing that is uncertain at present.
The fitting [banjo & rings] is OK, its the flex line over the barb that has a threaded nut [a knurled ring in fact]. I was worried that that knurled ring clamped down on a sealing ring around the pressure line, something like the ring in a compression fitting. Am I dreaming??
Sorry the original question wasn't clearer, and many thanks for the help! I'm trying to get this wrapped up before leaving for a 7 hour tow down to CMP for two races this weekend. THis is the one thing that is uncertain at present.
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Thanks George - the rebuild [and the aftermath] is done. Now I can sleep tonight!
The aftermath? I managed to fit the heater block-off plate upside down, which caused a coolant leak the first time the car was on track. It looked for all the world like a head/block leak, but with the intake off it was clearly much less serious. First race on the new engine this weekend. WooHoo!!
The aftermath? I managed to fit the heater block-off plate upside down, which caused a coolant leak the first time the car was on track. It looked for all the world like a head/block leak, but with the intake off it was clearly much less serious. First race on the new engine this weekend. WooHoo!!
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Just back from CMP. The car ran hard and strong. Boost was perfect - right on the numbers. Temps and pressures all in the green, and no leaks.
I can report that the rebuilt engine with 16 good valve springs runs a LOT stronger than the pre-rebuild with seven broken valve springs. Won both races. After working on this since January, its great to have the car running so strong. Makes it all worth while.
I can report that the rebuilt engine with 16 good valve springs runs a LOT stronger than the pre-rebuild with seven broken valve springs. Won both races. After working on this since January, its great to have the car running so strong. Makes it all worth while.