Where to find larger J-pipe???
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Where to find larger J-pipe???
I was just curious is someone could point me in the right direction in locating a larger J-pipe, such as the ones that come with a MAF or MAP kit? I am still going to use the stock VAF, but since the inlet of the turbo is larger I need a larger J-pipe.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#3
Originally Posted by MR951
You're probably going to have to piece something together with silicone reducers and a piece of hard pipe to fit.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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I just finished doing this.
it was quite easy, once I figured it out.
my turbo inlet was 3"
I set the j pipe where it should fit (slipped the end actually inside the turbo inlet)
then I marked where the j-boot meets the inlet of the turbo. (I made a mark by running a pencil around the inlet with the j-boot physically inside the inlet)
I then cut it off, I left a little bit extra on, since the inlet starts a few inches from the turbo blades, and it would help it transition better.
next I went to napa and purchased a 2 3/4" rubber hose, it was fairly thick.
now if you look at the j-boot there is a protruding ring, a flange that goes all the way around the j boot, just before all the ports.
this thicker ring is important and is where you want to have the overlap with the 2 3/4" hose
cut the other end of the 2 3/4" hose up to the inlet flange.
now just put a 3" hose from the turbo inlet to the cut j-boot (now with the 2 3/4" hose used as a fill piece)
and clamp it down, make sure that when you clamp down the j-boot side- you put the clamp right where that thicker ring is at the end of the cut j-boot.
in short:
cut j-boot where it reaches inlet flange (I slipped it a little inside it)
use 2 3/4" hose as a filler between the cut j-boot and the 3" hose
clamp down the j-boot, 2 3/4" hose and 3" hose all with one clamp (at the thick ring that wraps around near the end of the cut j-boot)
easy, cheap, and works perfect.
you can use all the stock ports as you don't cut that much off the j-boot
let me know if you have any questions.
I wish I took pics,
hope this helps.
it was quite easy, once I figured it out.
my turbo inlet was 3"
I set the j pipe where it should fit (slipped the end actually inside the turbo inlet)
then I marked where the j-boot meets the inlet of the turbo. (I made a mark by running a pencil around the inlet with the j-boot physically inside the inlet)
I then cut it off, I left a little bit extra on, since the inlet starts a few inches from the turbo blades, and it would help it transition better.
next I went to napa and purchased a 2 3/4" rubber hose, it was fairly thick.
now if you look at the j-boot there is a protruding ring, a flange that goes all the way around the j boot, just before all the ports.
this thicker ring is important and is where you want to have the overlap with the 2 3/4" hose
cut the other end of the 2 3/4" hose up to the inlet flange.
now just put a 3" hose from the turbo inlet to the cut j-boot (now with the 2 3/4" hose used as a fill piece)
and clamp it down, make sure that when you clamp down the j-boot side- you put the clamp right where that thicker ring is at the end of the cut j-boot.
in short:
cut j-boot where it reaches inlet flange (I slipped it a little inside it)
use 2 3/4" hose as a filler between the cut j-boot and the 3" hose
clamp down the j-boot, 2 3/4" hose and 3" hose all with one clamp (at the thick ring that wraps around near the end of the cut j-boot)
easy, cheap, and works perfect.
you can use all the stock ports as you don't cut that much off the j-boot
let me know if you have any questions.
I wish I took pics,
hope this helps.
#5
Race Director
"in short:
cut j-boot where it reaches inlet flange (I slipped it a little inside it)
use 2 3/4" hose as a filler between the cut j-boot and the 3" hose
clamp down the j-boot, 2 3/4" hose and 3" hose all with one clamp (at the thick ring that wraps around near the end of the cut j-boot)"
If you slip a short 0.5-0.75" section of 2" steel tubing inside the J-boot, it will allow you to clamp down on the J-boot tightly to make sure all those hose layers stay put.. This is scrap-metal at muffler shops you can pick up for free. This is a better way than stuffing a plastic or silicone hose inside the J-boot, because that will restrict it down to a diameter that's smaller than stock!
cut j-boot where it reaches inlet flange (I slipped it a little inside it)
use 2 3/4" hose as a filler between the cut j-boot and the 3" hose
clamp down the j-boot, 2 3/4" hose and 3" hose all with one clamp (at the thick ring that wraps around near the end of the cut j-boot)"
If you slip a short 0.5-0.75" section of 2" steel tubing inside the J-boot, it will allow you to clamp down on the J-boot tightly to make sure all those hose layers stay put.. This is scrap-metal at muffler shops you can pick up for free. This is a better way than stuffing a plastic or silicone hose inside the J-boot, because that will restrict it down to a diameter that's smaller than stock!
#6
Three Wheelin'
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"This is a better way than stuffing a plastic or silicone hose inside the J-boot"
I didn't put anything inside the j-boot,
I wrapped the 2 3/4 hose around the exterior of the j-boot.
I didn't put anything inside the j-boot,
I wrapped the 2 3/4 hose around the exterior of the j-boot.
#7
Race Director
"I didn't put anything inside the j-boot,
I wrapped the 2 3/4 hose around the exterior of the j-boot."
I know... but you're not getting enough clamping pressure with just rubber. You need something solid on the inside to really crank down that hose-clamp on the very outside. The friction slip-fit will be fine for now, but when you're operating the turbo, there's a lot of flow and vacuum at that spot. The heat of the engine compartment will soften the rubber as well and eventually the J-boot will slip and get eatened up by the turbo... ask me how I know...
I wrapped the 2 3/4 hose around the exterior of the j-boot."
I know... but you're not getting enough clamping pressure with just rubber. You need something solid on the inside to really crank down that hose-clamp on the very outside. The friction slip-fit will be fine for now, but when you're operating the turbo, there's a lot of flow and vacuum at that spot. The heat of the engine compartment will soften the rubber as well and eventually the J-boot will slip and get eatened up by the turbo... ask me how I know...