Doing the brakes!
04-25-2005, 09:00 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
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After having done a fair bit of research on this topic when I did my brakes, I decided to stick with stock lines. While some people claim noticable improvements on with SS lines, others claim no results, and still others notice negative effects.
04-26-2005, 10:20 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Dallas, then Annapolis - now Laguna Beach CA. Well, not so fast - I'm back in Dallas. For good!
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Some things to think abt...
1. I'd have new seals for the back of the front hubs - they can (will) get damaged during removal
2. Upgrade brake proportioning valve (Paragon) - this will make a difference...
3. Since when is SS lines BAD for the track?
1. I'd have new seals for the back of the front hubs - they can (will) get damaged during removal
2. Upgrade brake proportioning valve (Paragon) - this will make a difference...
3. Since when is SS lines BAD for the track?
04-26-2005, 10:28 AM
#20
Allow me to quote Sam:
Originally Posted by Sam Lin
Stainless brake lines are a waste of time and money. There is ZERO benefit from them, and a serious disadvantage of short lifespan coupled with invisible catastrophic failure. If you run them, change them every 4 years. The internal (Teflon) jacket does not repeatedly flex near as well as rubber and over use will crack. The cracking is invisible due to the stainless jacket. If you have held a stainless line and bent it while looking at the jacket, you know it is too loose to prevent ANY "expansion." Run stock rubber lines - every racer I know does for good reason.
04-26-2005, 10:42 AM
#21
Racer
Join Date: May 2001
Location: South Jersey
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I did bearings, rear calipers, rotors, pads, steel braided lines, and super blue all in about 2 hours. Bleeding was a bit of a pain with new, dry calipers, but not too bad. I tried a Mighty-Vac to bleed it myself, but it was useless. My brother pumping the brake pedal worked much better. The super blue seemed a bit thicker in consistency, so it took longer to get the bubbles out. I ran through the sequence so many times, I had it down to a science. I could bleed all four in about 5 minutes without jacking the car or pulling the wheels. 
With the stainless lines I had a much firmer pedal and once I got all the air out of the lines, the brakes were very enjoyable. Granted I didn't run them for 4 years and with all respect to Sam, I never heard of failure due to lack of flex. Many racers I know use stainless without a problem. Probably overkill for the street though.
With the stainless lines I had a much firmer pedal and once I got all the air out of the lines, the brakes were very enjoyable. Granted I didn't run them for 4 years and with all respect to Sam, I never heard of failure due to lack of flex. Many racers I know use stainless without a problem. Probably overkill for the street though.
04-26-2005, 08:06 PM
#24
Pro
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Location: Maryland
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Do you guys think I need to get the factory manuals for this? I was planning on using Clark's garage, but it doesn't have any pics. Is the fac manual any better?
