streckfu's

DFASTEST,

Here you go. Copy the picture's location and access your Rennlist CP. Then select edit Avatar and paste the url into the line provided.

DFASTEST951

I could very well be wrong about Zaino being a wax. I got the whole skinny from gurureports.com. They do all kinds of tests with all kinds of products for cars. I have the copy of the wax report. They took 40 different waxes and rated all of them. Best to worst. In three different price catagories. Zaino Bros. and PS2 came out on top of all in the most expensive price catagory. Anyway, I would find a detailer who will guarantee in writing not to leave any swirlmarks or rasberries and that's the detailer you want to go with. Then just keep it up with the tips I gave or whatever you want. Good luck to all.

Darwantae951

DFASTEST, do you have any pictures of your engine bay? I'd love to see that 3.0 16v turbo!

Madant26x

Hey DFASTEST951, I also have a copy of the Guru Wax Report. Ben Z is correct in saying that Zaino is not a wax, it's a polymer based sealant, like Klasse. There is no carnuba in the product at all. Zaino won it's category and the winner of the wax category was P21S, which I think you're calling PS2? That is the wax I use, and the stuff is amazing. No dry time, no white residue, just wipe on wipe off, Daniel Son! Anyway, I like the results of Zaino, but since it's a non-wax based product it leaves a distortion-free shine, which can leave the paint a little plastic looking without depth, think more shine and gloss, less of a wet look.

A hot combo that people on Autopia.com use, the Rennlist of detailing forums, is Klasse AIO (All-In-One) acrylic sealant base layer, topped with a layer of P21S. That's what I'm in the middle of putting on my car, so I'll post some pics when it's finished. But good paint preperation (polishing out imperfections) is always the best way to get your paint to look good, not the best wax/sealant.

Jeremy

Tom -

I would recommend you take a visit to carcareonline.com - the company goes by the name Car Care Specialties out of NJ. Many of us use him, so you will see his name in other posts and he is also at Hershey each year. He specializes in the care of German cars, and I would also recommend reading his car care articles on the site. Since the Zymol mass markeing debacle he has recommended using 3M hand glaze to remove dirt (this stuff really brings back your paint) and One-grand blitz wax as a covering for a daily driver. He is trying to come out with a product similar to Black Again (he has been working for a couple of years, so I wouldn't expect it to come out soon) - he has told me the original company sold the rights to a new producer and is still available, however, he says the new producer added additional oil in the manufacturing process - which will drift to other parts of your car when it rains. He recommends a one-grand product that I have had success with after a few applications. I would recommend anyone interested in learning the proper way of taking care of Porsche paint take a read of the articles on his site -

Jeremy

DFASTEST951

Manant26x, I stand corrected. Klasse was used on a lot of the cars at the auction. Still my paint outdid theirs by a pretty good margin. I agree, Paint prep is the most important step to a great finish and I can do a better job than 90% of the detailers out there but I can't out do Granite in Vegas. I just keep it up with his products. He just completed the manufacturing process as Guru Reports started testing and didn't get into the competition. He said he is in the next one they do. I'd love to see pics when you are done. Maybe you would like to test his stuff. I think he sells it online at Graniteautogrooming.com. He's pretty confident borderline cocky about his stuff and he's ridiculously expensive but I keep getting all these compliments on my finish so I guess he's got a right to be. He's funny to talk to as he will tell you what is missing from other waxes, depending on the brand. If you do, be sure to let me know.
Bonestock951s, I will try to post a pic of my motor. I have a ton of pics but can't get them small enough to load here. I feel like an idiot!

MR951

Good info. Thanks all. BTW what are you folks using on the spoiler? Same rubber/vinyl dressing you use for the dash or something else?

Jeremy

I am using ERV dressing by One Grand for the outside rubber - Vinylex by Lexol for the interior -

Jeremy

painkiller

DFASTEST that is the best looking black turbo I've seen and the wheels look fantastic. I bet its fun getting all those screw heads.

As far as waxes etc., my car sat outside under a tree uncovered for about two years and the finish began looking very chalky. I tried five or six compounds until I discovered 3M Perfect-It III cutting compound. Applied with a Porter Cable polisher it removed the whiteness and took it down to the base. I followed that with normal compound, then swirl remover, and finally wax. I have had good results with Meguires (sp) ultra high gloss in a black bottle. Its not cheap, about $20 IIRC but I've used it on black cars and it really looks good. I tested Rejex and although I could not view it in the sun the gloss did not appear as deep. The advantage Rejex seems to have is in its durability over wax for areas that are difficult to clean or normally do not get cleaned often like wheels or engine compartments. I have treated my wheels with two coats of it and there are a lot of people that say brake dust simply washes off with minimal hand cleaning which would be nice especially the inside part of the wheel you cannot reach unless it has been removed.

For exterior black rubber I use Back to Black which is a thick silicone. It does seem to attract dust but will bring spoilers, mouldings etc to a nice deep finish. I have ordered some 303 protectorant for the inside and will test it on the outside too. I dont know if there is one best product out there, it seems like everyone has their own favorite. Like WD-40 for instance!

John

Madant26x

Just checked out his website, his customer cars look really good! I'll have to look out for the next Guru Report to see how his wax compares to P21S. But your car does look awesome, my white paint will never have the deep glossy look your's does, but I'll post some pics after I put on the Klasse/P21S finish. It's just so much of a PITA to do all the prep work, even with a random orbital, especially when I know I have to do it all over again after each track event!!!

Here are some pics after a light polish and P21S wax:

Afternoon


Evening

DFASTEST951

painkiller, just mentioning those screwheads makes me wince...Madant26x, I don't know if I've ever seen a white car give off that reflection. Nice!

RogueM3

I just ordered a bunch of stuff from www.autogeek.net they have a huge variety of products....AND if when you are checking out you use the "coupon code" of CLUBMEMBER you will get 10% off.

DFASTEST951

Ok, finally got the Photo Suite to resize my pic thanks to streckfu's 951.

toddk911

Anyone used a clay bar??

Madant26x

Hell yeah!!! That stuff is easy to work with and saves you from polishing out road debris every time you wash your car. I use Clay Magic, blue stuff, and it works great. I usually use the clay once a month, or if the car is really dirty. It helps to remove stuff that soap can't and polish is too aggresive for.

A few tips:

1) Cut the clay bar into 4-5 long sections and use a section at a time.

2) Make sure it never gets dropped or your can just throw it away (picks up stones that WILL scratch your paint). That's one reason why you cut up the bar.

3) If you run out of the lubricant they provide, you can use either free flowing water from a hose or non-waxed based detailing spray. I have used both and water works just fine, just hold the stream right where you're using the clay bar.

4) Do a small area at a time, spray the lubricant on the paint first, then rub the clay piece with a medium pressure on the paint in small up and down movements. And make sure to keep kneading the clay after each section so that you fold in the dirt. (Your paint still has contaminants on it even after you wash). Once the piece you're using becomes totally dirty and has a darker color to it, throw it away use another piece. This is the second reason why you cut up the bar.

5) Make sure you use a lot of lubricant/detail spray or water. If you see the clay bar sticking to the paint, then you're not using enough. If you're using water, you should be holding the stream to the paint with one hand and using the clay piece at the same time with the other hand.