Ian Carr

I put half a quart of ATF in my car today since it finally got running. The ticking actually went down but im not sure what it is. I could get a short little video so you can hear the noise my car is making.

toddk911

Well, if valves, just a valve job might be needed or full reubild??

What about bearings???

toddk911

After driving to work today, I could actually feel a little of the "clanking" on the gas pedal.

I noticed when driving buy other cars and I could hear the motor a little better echo off there car, it sounds like valves, but I could be wrong. i.e. at lower revs more of the clicking sound, but at higher revs, a heavier clanking sound.

ken louie

Check the exhaust manifold bolts to make sure they're tight. I had the same problem you are describing. Thought it was the valves too. Btw how many mile on your car? ken

toddk911

Ok, Ken thanks for the tip.

It's got about 130K and always taken care of, constant oil changes, plugs etc. Timing belt was just changed, tensioned etc.

Actually that makes me think that I know the downpipe was getting loose.

toddk911

But I can actually feel the "clanking" like something must be hitting hard, which is scary. But the car drives/boosts fine. Although since this I have been very easy on it.

Peckster

I believe you, but I bet it would have stopped by itself. I don't buy the atf line, at all.

Change your oil right away.

toddk911

Well, it is much louder once the car is up to operating temp. Does that make a diference on the equation???

R.B.

Stop driving your car. Something is obviously wrong. Did you drain your oil and check for metal shavings. What you describe could be any of a number of the above suggestions, but if it is something really bad like rod bearings, you are doing more damage to your car. Get it checked out.

Just my $0.02

-R.B.

hosrom_951

Also look at the drain plug for any signs of metal (it is magnetic).

toddk911

Funny enough I just changed the oil last week.

I will run it up to my shop asap. Just hoping something I could deal with and not have to have mech on the car again.

toddk911

YEP, IT APPEARS TO BE THE $2 !!! Stopped by the shop, and noticed loosing some oil pressure, and mech said the "clanking" was the piston hitting the head. Then he pulled the #2 plug and it stopped. He was still hopefull it might not be that bad. Said he will of course check the drain plug first and see where things stand.

So, what should be done while I am in there and what is benificial to do while I am in there??? Well, my mech that is

First thing that comes to mind is going to 3L crank, but then there is a bunch of expensr with that ON TOP of the rebuild correct? The crank itself, which are expensive and hard tom come by, then new rods for the longer stroke, etc.

Is it ok to just do a bottom end rebuild and not touch the top end?

Danno

"Is it ok to just do a bottom end rebuild and not touch the top end?"

It depends... Do a compression & leak-down check to see how well the rings are sealing. Once you've dropped the oil-pan to get to the rod-bearings, you're only 2 hours from pulling the top as well. Then you can slide the pistons out the top and replace the rings... Then with the head off.. you can rebuild it... .. Then while you're there, you can replace the valves with modern hard-alloy ones that weigh less, has flatter heads, slightly larger... While you've there, you can port & polish it. With the head off, you can also look at an aftermarket cam... but then you can convert to solid-lifters to use some really nice cam-profiles.. .where does the insanity end ?@#!#@!??

hosrom_951

This is all assuming that the cylinder walls are scratch-free off-course