installing a 930S wheel
04-01-2005, 08:23 PM
#1
installing a 930S wheel
When you buy the 930S wheel does it come hub adapter and everything needed to install it on a 944? or will I need to source some other pieces to get it on? I really like the look, and it seems like a great wheel for DE events. Anyone have opinions on this wheel? Thanks!
-Darwin
-Darwin
04-01-2005, 08:47 PM
#2
Geaux Tigers!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Got it and love it. It feels nice in your hands, much better than the thin OEM.
If you get it from AJUSA it will include the adapter. Not sure about other sellers. Consider the cloisnee crest b/c it finishes it off nicely. Also, note that it's not exactly like the original b/c it used more pieces of leather than the OEM wheel.
If you get it from AJUSA it will include the adapter. Not sure about other sellers. Consider the cloisnee crest b/c it finishes it off nicely. Also, note that it's not exactly like the original b/c it used more pieces of leather than the OEM wheel.
04-01-2005, 09:04 PM
#3
My car is an airbag car, if I convert it to this wheel, what will I have to do in bypassing the airbag system? I assume the airbag light will come on since the car won't detect the unit in place.
04-01-2005, 09:09 PM
#5
Geaux Tigers!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Bonestock951S
My car is an airbag car, if I convert it to this wheel, what will I have to do in bypassing the airbag system? I assume the airbag light will come on since the car won't detect the unit in place.
Originally Posted by Bonestock952
and also, what exactly is the cloisnee crest?
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04-01-2005, 09:43 PM
#10
Here you go:
AIRBAG STEERING WHEEL DELETION Top of Page
Pictures TBD
PCNA sells a brochure entitled Service Information Technik, Airbag- System, part number WKD-497-121. It presents a nice overview of the airbag system, but don't expect to find too much technical information. I did find it helpful in understanding the basic operation of the airbag system however. The cost was less than $10.
STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL
To prevent inadvertent discharge of the airbag during removal, the negative terminal of the battery must be disconnected for a minimum of 20 minutes to allow the firing capacitor in the controller to discharge.
The airbag is attached to the steering wheel with two self-locking Torx T30 screws. If these screws have never been removed they will be difficult to remove. If possible, use a socket driver and ratchet instead of a screw driver.
Disconnect the red electrical connector by pulling it straight out. Once the connector is removed from the rear of the airbag the electrical contacts in the airbag short together to prevent accidental discharge from static electricity.
As a safety precaution, store the airbag with the front face pointing up or away from any solid surface. In the unlikely event of an accidental discharge you don't want the airbag flying across the room!
The steering wheel is attached with a 24 mm nut (M16x1.5, 45Nm or 33 ft-lb). Remove it, the steering wheel, the plastic steering column cover, and the rotary controller for the horn & airbag. This will expose the multi-function switch.
MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH
When I started this project I was told the steering column multi-function switch (i.e., turn signal, wiper and cruise control) must be replaced with the non airbag model and the matching steering column cover in order to retain a functioning horn. I purchased these parts new at a cost of nearly $150. When I tried to install these pieces I found the new switch wasn't compatible with the cover because it didn't have the proper mounting holes! A defective part? Perhaps. At any rate it went back to the dealer.
So... back to the Airbag-System manual. Hmmm. The 911 and the 928 appear to use the same multi-function switch for both airbag and non airbag steering wheels. The only difference looked like the addition of a little horn contact in place of the rotary airbag controller. After inspection of my multi-function switch it looked like this same part would also work on the 944. I snapped in part 928-652-104-00 (about $4) and had the equivalent of the non airbag setup. Disclaimer: while this horn contact worked great in my 1990 S2 and my son's 1989 turbo, I've been told that not all model year cars have the proper little hour-glass shaped cutout in the multi-function switch faceplate... so be sure to check. Note: to remove the multi-function switch you'll need an 8mm 1/4 drive socket and at least a 3" extension to reach the steering column attachment bolt.
Please note that the multifunction switch is somewhat adjustable for position on the steering column. In other words, it can be moved in or out slightly after loosening the clamp bolt. You may find it necessary to adjust it's position slightly so the rear of the steering wheel hub will clear the large diameter hole in the plastic faceplate cover... and at the same time put adequate pressure on the horn contact.
So far so good... the only problem is the horn wire for the stock thumb switches goes through a rotary contact device with a separate wiring harness. On the non airbag setup the horn wire harness terminates at pin 71 at the back of the multi-function switch. The new horn contact has this new pin and the existing connector has the provision for it... you just need to find a method to splice in the existing horn wire. I was able to purchase the proper female crimp socket at my local Porsche dealer from their stock of miscellaneous electrical parts. I cut the existing horn wire at the "car side" of the horn connector in the rotary contact harness, and terminated it in this socket, which then clipped into the existing connector holder. One of these days I'll get around to taking some pictures since I'm sure they would help :-)
PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG & WARNING LIGHTS
At this point the car will run and the passenger side airbag will still be operational. However, the Airbag Indicator, Seat belt, and warning lights will remain lit because the SRS controller will register a fault from the disconnected driver's side airbag.
There are at least two methods that can be used to turn off the warning lights.
METHOD 1: SNIP THE WARNING LIGHT WIRES. The SRS controller is the bright orange module bolted to the underside of the dash in front of the glove box. It connects to the car harness through a round, 7-pin connector. The wire colors and functions are as follows:
1- brown, ground
2- red/black, central electric KL50
3- black/white, central electric N48
4- black /red, supply for DME relay
5- white, buzzer relay, seat belt
6- unused
7- yellow/black, airbag warning lamp
To keep the warning lights from activating, snip wires 5 and 7 on either the car side of the harness or at the controller itself. (Note: the wires directly attached to the controller are different colors). I didn't use this method because I didn't want to cut any wires in the car harness or controller. In any event, if you snip the wires or just leave the warning lights on, you do NOT KNOW THE STATUS OF THE SYSTEM. Therefore, I recommend the passenger side airbag also be removed or disconnected AT THE BAGS to ensure the bag contacts are shorted. This requires pulling the glove box, which is easily removed by taking out the 5 Phillips screws, the glove box light, and the glove box door. Removal of the passenger airbag is a PITA. I left mine intact, but disconnected.
METHOD 2: DISCONNECT THE CONTROLLER. This is the method I used. If you just disconnect the 7-pin connector the car won't start because the controller needs to send a signal to the DME relay via pin 4. This problem can be overcome by jumping pins 3 and 4 together so the relay receives a signal. The easiest method to do this is to use an old controller-side connector half from a bad controller... or the one from your old controller if you don't intend to use it again. This preserves the integrity of the stock wiring.
I suggest cutting all the wires off the back of the old plug except those corresponding to pins 3 and 4, solder or crimp those two wires together, and protect with shrink wrap or other suitable method (I sealed the back of the connector with RTV). Insert the modified plug into the car side connector half and the engine will start and function normally, and the warning lights will be deactivated :-)
I have one reservation about using this method however. In the event of a real crash that would have been sufficient to deploy the airbags, the controller interrupts power to the DME relay. This turns off the engine and fuel pump. By leaving the controller connected and snipping the warning light wires, this feature is retained.
I really love the look and feel of the 3-spoke steering wheel, and the slightly smaller diameter is nice for the added leg room and quicker steering. If you can live (no pun intended) without the airbags, I highly recommend fitting the 968 CS or similar steering wheel if you drive on the track. Take a look here.
Dissclaimer: I do not advocate removing or deactivating the airbags for purely cosmetic reasons. There are valid reasons for removing or deactivating the airbags, such as: track use, equipment age, or protection for short drivers. Weigh the associated risks and make your own informed decision.
AIRBAG STEERING WHEEL DELETION Top of Page
Pictures TBD
PCNA sells a brochure entitled Service Information Technik, Airbag- System, part number WKD-497-121. It presents a nice overview of the airbag system, but don't expect to find too much technical information. I did find it helpful in understanding the basic operation of the airbag system however. The cost was less than $10.
STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL
To prevent inadvertent discharge of the airbag during removal, the negative terminal of the battery must be disconnected for a minimum of 20 minutes to allow the firing capacitor in the controller to discharge.
The airbag is attached to the steering wheel with two self-locking Torx T30 screws. If these screws have never been removed they will be difficult to remove. If possible, use a socket driver and ratchet instead of a screw driver.
Disconnect the red electrical connector by pulling it straight out. Once the connector is removed from the rear of the airbag the electrical contacts in the airbag short together to prevent accidental discharge from static electricity.
As a safety precaution, store the airbag with the front face pointing up or away from any solid surface. In the unlikely event of an accidental discharge you don't want the airbag flying across the room!
The steering wheel is attached with a 24 mm nut (M16x1.5, 45Nm or 33 ft-lb). Remove it, the steering wheel, the plastic steering column cover, and the rotary controller for the horn & airbag. This will expose the multi-function switch.
MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH
When I started this project I was told the steering column multi-function switch (i.e., turn signal, wiper and cruise control) must be replaced with the non airbag model and the matching steering column cover in order to retain a functioning horn. I purchased these parts new at a cost of nearly $150. When I tried to install these pieces I found the new switch wasn't compatible with the cover because it didn't have the proper mounting holes! A defective part? Perhaps. At any rate it went back to the dealer.
So... back to the Airbag-System manual. Hmmm. The 911 and the 928 appear to use the same multi-function switch for both airbag and non airbag steering wheels. The only difference looked like the addition of a little horn contact in place of the rotary airbag controller. After inspection of my multi-function switch it looked like this same part would also work on the 944. I snapped in part 928-652-104-00 (about $4) and had the equivalent of the non airbag setup. Disclaimer: while this horn contact worked great in my 1990 S2 and my son's 1989 turbo, I've been told that not all model year cars have the proper little hour-glass shaped cutout in the multi-function switch faceplate... so be sure to check. Note: to remove the multi-function switch you'll need an 8mm 1/4 drive socket and at least a 3" extension to reach the steering column attachment bolt.
Please note that the multifunction switch is somewhat adjustable for position on the steering column. In other words, it can be moved in or out slightly after loosening the clamp bolt. You may find it necessary to adjust it's position slightly so the rear of the steering wheel hub will clear the large diameter hole in the plastic faceplate cover... and at the same time put adequate pressure on the horn contact.
So far so good... the only problem is the horn wire for the stock thumb switches goes through a rotary contact device with a separate wiring harness. On the non airbag setup the horn wire harness terminates at pin 71 at the back of the multi-function switch. The new horn contact has this new pin and the existing connector has the provision for it... you just need to find a method to splice in the existing horn wire. I was able to purchase the proper female crimp socket at my local Porsche dealer from their stock of miscellaneous electrical parts. I cut the existing horn wire at the "car side" of the horn connector in the rotary contact harness, and terminated it in this socket, which then clipped into the existing connector holder. One of these days I'll get around to taking some pictures since I'm sure they would help :-)
PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG & WARNING LIGHTS
At this point the car will run and the passenger side airbag will still be operational. However, the Airbag Indicator, Seat belt, and warning lights will remain lit because the SRS controller will register a fault from the disconnected driver's side airbag.
There are at least two methods that can be used to turn off the warning lights.
METHOD 1: SNIP THE WARNING LIGHT WIRES. The SRS controller is the bright orange module bolted to the underside of the dash in front of the glove box. It connects to the car harness through a round, 7-pin connector. The wire colors and functions are as follows:
1- brown, ground
2- red/black, central electric KL50
3- black/white, central electric N48
4- black /red, supply for DME relay
5- white, buzzer relay, seat belt
6- unused
7- yellow/black, airbag warning lamp
To keep the warning lights from activating, snip wires 5 and 7 on either the car side of the harness or at the controller itself. (Note: the wires directly attached to the controller are different colors). I didn't use this method because I didn't want to cut any wires in the car harness or controller. In any event, if you snip the wires or just leave the warning lights on, you do NOT KNOW THE STATUS OF THE SYSTEM. Therefore, I recommend the passenger side airbag also be removed or disconnected AT THE BAGS to ensure the bag contacts are shorted. This requires pulling the glove box, which is easily removed by taking out the 5 Phillips screws, the glove box light, and the glove box door. Removal of the passenger airbag is a PITA. I left mine intact, but disconnected.
METHOD 2: DISCONNECT THE CONTROLLER. This is the method I used. If you just disconnect the 7-pin connector the car won't start because the controller needs to send a signal to the DME relay via pin 4. This problem can be overcome by jumping pins 3 and 4 together so the relay receives a signal. The easiest method to do this is to use an old controller-side connector half from a bad controller... or the one from your old controller if you don't intend to use it again. This preserves the integrity of the stock wiring.
I suggest cutting all the wires off the back of the old plug except those corresponding to pins 3 and 4, solder or crimp those two wires together, and protect with shrink wrap or other suitable method (I sealed the back of the connector with RTV). Insert the modified plug into the car side connector half and the engine will start and function normally, and the warning lights will be deactivated :-)
I have one reservation about using this method however. In the event of a real crash that would have been sufficient to deploy the airbags, the controller interrupts power to the DME relay. This turns off the engine and fuel pump. By leaving the controller connected and snipping the warning light wires, this feature is retained.
I really love the look and feel of the 3-spoke steering wheel, and the slightly smaller diameter is nice for the added leg room and quicker steering. If you can live (no pun intended) without the airbags, I highly recommend fitting the 968 CS or similar steering wheel if you drive on the track. Take a look here.
Dissclaimer: I do not advocate removing or deactivating the airbags for purely cosmetic reasons. There are valid reasons for removing or deactivating the airbags, such as: track use, equipment age, or protection for short drivers. Weigh the associated risks and make your own informed decision.
04-01-2005, 09:44 PM
#11
Geaux Tigers!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Bonestock951S
damn, my firefox doenst have the available plugins to navigate the site!...anyone care to copy/paste the how-to?
**EDIT** Ah, I see Streck beat me. Good luck!
04-01-2005, 09:45 PM
#12
Also his text about using the 968 steering wheel instead of the 930.
With a few 968 components on the exterior, it made perfect sense to add one to the interior. I really liked the look of the 3-spoke, non-airbag steering wheel I had seen in various publications. This wheel style is known as the "930S" since it was originally used on the Porsche 930 turbo. The steering wheel I actually purchased is from the European 968 CS (Club Sport). The only difference between this wheel and the one used on the 930 is the crest on the horn pad. The 930 wheel has a cloisonné crest and the CS wheel has an embossed crest. I purchased my wheel from a friend in Germany. Once I had the wheel... and the Porsche part number I decided to check with my local Porsche dealer to see if it was available in the US. It was! The part number is 968-347-084-00-8YR (black). Retail price complete with hub is about $440 and will require a special order from Germany. Check out Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, OR for the best price in the US. Sunset sells Porsche parts for cost plus 15%, and that puts the price around $379, with about a 5-day delivery from Germany. Another source for those in the UK or Europe would be Porsch-Apart in the UK. Price is £289, or roughly $410 US plus shipping.
A copy of the 930S wheel is available from AJ USA for about $300. This wheel is the same style as the factory wheel but is constructed from multiple pieces of leather instead of the single, continuous piece used on the factory wheel. The leather is very soft and supple and the wheel looks and feels quite good. I didn't really like the multiple-piece construction technique however, so I opted for the factory part... and I'm glad I did.
Installation on non-airbag equipped cars is straightforward. Just remove the old wheel and bolt on the new one. The procedure on airbag equipped cars is a bit more complicated since the airbag cars use a totally different horn contact configuration. In addition, once the airbag equipped steering wheel is removed, modifications must be made to the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) wiring in order to keep the warning lights from activating. A technical discussion of this procedure is presented here.
With a few 968 components on the exterior, it made perfect sense to add one to the interior. I really liked the look of the 3-spoke, non-airbag steering wheel I had seen in various publications. This wheel style is known as the "930S" since it was originally used on the Porsche 930 turbo. The steering wheel I actually purchased is from the European 968 CS (Club Sport). The only difference between this wheel and the one used on the 930 is the crest on the horn pad. The 930 wheel has a cloisonné crest and the CS wheel has an embossed crest. I purchased my wheel from a friend in Germany. Once I had the wheel... and the Porsche part number I decided to check with my local Porsche dealer to see if it was available in the US. It was! The part number is 968-347-084-00-8YR (black). Retail price complete with hub is about $440 and will require a special order from Germany. Check out Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, OR for the best price in the US. Sunset sells Porsche parts for cost plus 15%, and that puts the price around $379, with about a 5-day delivery from Germany. Another source for those in the UK or Europe would be Porsch-Apart in the UK. Price is £289, or roughly $410 US plus shipping.
A copy of the 930S wheel is available from AJ USA for about $300. This wheel is the same style as the factory wheel but is constructed from multiple pieces of leather instead of the single, continuous piece used on the factory wheel. The leather is very soft and supple and the wheel looks and feels quite good. I didn't really like the multiple-piece construction technique however, so I opted for the factory part... and I'm glad I did.
Installation on non-airbag equipped cars is straightforward. Just remove the old wheel and bolt on the new one. The procedure on airbag equipped cars is a bit more complicated since the airbag cars use a totally different horn contact configuration. In addition, once the airbag equipped steering wheel is removed, modifications must be made to the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) wiring in order to keep the warning lights from activating. A technical discussion of this procedure is presented here.
04-01-2005, 10:08 PM
#13
Geaux Tigers!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The multi pieces detract a little but I think the cloisenne crest looks better than the embossed black leather 968 piece. Perhaps b/c my interior is already all black the little bit of bling breaks it up.
